Sensitivity
12-09-2004, 07:45 PM
#1
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,026
Measuring sensitivity is crap (as I recently found out on this board). Some companies use 2.83 v as a watt into a 4 ohm load, other companies measure sensitivity inside a car benefiting from cabin gain, yada yada yada . . . its all crap.
Anywhere, here is my situation. I am looking for a speaker with a TRUE high sensitivity. Actually, I want a woofer that will do it all.
- High efficiency (true High SPL/watt)
- Work well in a ported enclosure 0.6 cubes or less.
- Good low-end extension, reasonably flat response in that enclosure down to 30ish hz.
- I don't need high power handling, I will only send 200-300watts.
Does any one know of a woofer that would be loud, smooth working with only 200-300 watts in a small ported enclosure?
Anywhere, here is my situation. I am looking for a speaker with a TRUE high sensitivity. Actually, I want a woofer that will do it all.
- High efficiency (true High SPL/watt)
- Work well in a ported enclosure 0.6 cubes or less.
- Good low-end extension, reasonably flat response in that enclosure down to 30ish hz.
- I don't need high power handling, I will only send 200-300watts.
Does any one know of a woofer that would be loud, smooth working with only 200-300 watts in a small ported enclosure?
12-09-2004, 08:23 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
How about adding that it only costs $1.50 too!
High efficiency and ability to be used in a small ported enclosure are two things you won't find together. In order to have a high sensitivity you need a light cone and voice coil assembly. But in order to have a small box you need high mass cone assemblies to work. Most speakers are what, 2% efficient? I wouldn't worry about sensitivity at all.
High efficiency and ability to be used in a small ported enclosure are two things you won't find together. In order to have a high sensitivity you need a light cone and voice coil assembly. But in order to have a small box you need high mass cone assemblies to work. Most speakers are what, 2% efficient? I wouldn't worry about sensitivity at all.
12-09-2004, 08:52 PM
#3
^ agreed...
Look at n0 and it will tell you a little something about effeciency in its bandwidth... obviously, if you move out of bandwidth effeciency means jack.... which is why even true db @ 1khz 1w/1m ratings are only meaningfull around 1khz... [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img]
However if the manufacturer gives response curves then you can use the db @ 1khz 1w/1m stated as a reference level on the graph...
Edit: don't forget that box and install will totally change reponse and level too... lol..
[ December 09, 2004, 09:54 PM: Message edited by: Haunz ]
Look at n0 and it will tell you a little something about effeciency in its bandwidth... obviously, if you move out of bandwidth effeciency means jack.... which is why even true db @ 1khz 1w/1m ratings are only meaningfull around 1khz... [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img]
However if the manufacturer gives response curves then you can use the db @ 1khz 1w/1m stated as a reference level on the graph...
Edit: don't forget that box and install will totally change reponse and level too... lol..
[ December 09, 2004, 09:54 PM: Message edited by: Haunz ]
12-09-2004, 10:02 PM
#4
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,026
Yeah, the response was in a box that size. Flat response means jack without a box.
Alright, what about 6" JL W0, will that be reasonably loud with 200wrms (Its rated at 75rms, but I assume it can handle it). Are their other woofers similiar to that?
DWVW, what have you got for $1.50?
[ December 09, 2004, 11:03 PM: Message edited by: maltesechicken ]
Alright, what about 6" JL W0, will that be reasonably loud with 200wrms (Its rated at 75rms, but I assume it can handle it). Are their other woofers similiar to that?
DWVW, what have you got for $1.50?
[ December 09, 2004, 11:03 PM: Message edited by: maltesechicken ]
12-10-2004, 10:23 PM
#7
Actual efficiency of a woofer is too low to have a large amount of significance in SPL, even at low powers. Based on the 1W at 1 m definition, we find that a rating of 89dB is almost exactly 1% efficient, and even 92 dB is only 2% efficient (a 100% efficient woofer would be rated at 109.0079 dB).
Because of such a low efficiency, the actual SPL will be determined more on the specs of the woofer and how they react with the box you put the speaker in.
The RE 8 I use is only about 81 dB efficiency, but it is louder than many 12's with ~90 dB efficiency off of the same amp. Even though it is technically about 0.15 percent efficient, it can be made to perform well in a proper box, and can be louder than a woofer that is over 1% efficient.
Because of such a low efficiency, the actual SPL will be determined more on the specs of the woofer and how they react with the box you put the speaker in.
The RE 8 I use is only about 81 dB efficiency, but it is louder than many 12's with ~90 dB efficiency off of the same amp. Even though it is technically about 0.15 percent efficient, it can be made to perform well in a proper box, and can be louder than a woofer that is over 1% efficient.
12-11-2004, 08:21 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Clamshell doesn't really reduce efficiency - It just has the output of one driver but needs two to work. If the expectation is to only have the output of a single driver then it is the same [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
Yeah - have fun with a vent in any box under 1cuft
Yeah - have fun with a vent in any box under 1cuft
12-11-2004, 10:49 AM
#9
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,026
Port length is not an issue. I will be tucking the box behind the wheel well in my wagon, so I will have room to run a 2-2.5" port over the wheel well.
Clam shell is a good idea, but I am a cheap dutchman and don't want to buy an additional driver if I don't get the additional out-put. I've decided on something that would work similar to a JL 6W0. Does any body know of a driver that would work in a similar tight situation as the JL 6W0?
Clam shell is a good idea, but I am a cheap dutchman and don't want to buy an additional driver if I don't get the additional out-put. I've decided on something that would work similar to a JL 6W0. Does any body know of a driver that would work in a similar tight situation as the JL 6W0?
12-11-2004, 12:27 PM
#10
IMO a single 6W0 isn't going to give you the output you'd hope for, considering the cost of one of those. A pair of 6.5s in a ported box can give some output (I've tried it) but a single is going to be weak, especially in a largish cabin like a wagon.
Hey, for pretty much the cost of a new single 6W0, I got a pair of brand new Canton 10s you can buy. [img]graemlins/deal4u.gif[/img] $150 takes 'em and then you could do the clamshell plus have the sheer cone area of a 10 compared to a 6.
Hey, for pretty much the cost of a new single 6W0, I got a pair of brand new Canton 10s you can buy. [img]graemlins/deal4u.gif[/img] $150 takes 'em and then you could do the clamshell plus have the sheer cone area of a 10 compared to a 6.
