obiwan99

Hi all,

I'm a noob with this. I have a 12 inch sealed sub and an amp which I want to have installed on my 2010 TSX 4cyl Canadian base model. What I would like is to have a quick option to have the OEM sub functional when required. OEM sub is open air sub.

My specific requirements beside best overall SQ are :

1. When I am in need of trunk space, I would remove the sealed sub but have the oem sub functional.

2. When the sealed sub is in the trunk, the oem sub is disconnected/non-functional.

3. When the car engine is not running and the sealed sub is in the trunk, the oem sub is functional.

I went to two shops. Both shops indicated that they will use a LOC but would have the oem sub functional with the aftermarket sub.

Shop 1 tells me that he will take the signal from the two rear speakers and not tap into the oem sub speaker cable leading to the oem sub.

Shop 2 tells me that he will just tap into oem sub speaker cable.

In both shops, they will maintain the oem sub functional with the after market sub.

Which way should I go? Is there there some EQ on the OEM sub, thus driving that signal over to the aftermarket sub amp will not give me the lower frequency that the OEM sub can't handle?

Does the two rear speakers (left & right), have the full range signal?

Also, what do you think of having the OEM sub functional with the after market sub? Will there be some kind of cancellation issues?

I was originally thinking of just putting some sort of a speaker switch off the sub speaker cable from the oem sub amp. When I remove the aftermarket sub, I would manually push the speaker switch button to route the signal back to the OEM sub.

However, both shops are indicating that it's best to just keep the oem sub functional along with the aftermarket sub.

BTW, I ordered the audiocontrol LC2i and will be using that to pull the signal from the oem speaker signal.

Thank You.

trendkill25

I don't see why you couldnt switch manually like you said. A bit of screwing around, but ... relay from your ignition to switch power from oem to aftermarket with key on, and that manual switch for when u pull your aftermarket sub out? As long as it also over rides the relay that will switch it off. Not hard, just takes a bit of figuring.

BradSk88

I doubt the rears have full range, but you can test by disconnecting the factory sub, fading the the rear and seeing if you can still hear the rumblies.
I also doubt the sub has full range, best bet is usually to go off the fronts, but it depends entirely on the vehicle, so just do the listen/fade test.

If the shops are saying 'it's better to run both subs' they're just being lazy (you're hearing this from an installer, myself), because yes there will probably be cancellation issues.

Easiest way to accomplish what you're trying to do would be to just have a manual on/off switch for the factory sub. It doesn't have to control the aftermarket sub, because when you play the factory one it will be when the aftermarket is removed.