get a magazine to do it.

 

i think you can get false reading cause if one guy uses different solder than another he will get a different reading . and of course the crimper. if you use a hammer crimper or a proper crimper than you will get different resistances. obviously prolifik gets results that he is happy with becuase of the steps used to do his work. that is his best low resistance.

when i tried this.....many moons ago. i got the best connection(less resistance) all i used was copper crimp and silver solder.

there is always a reason as to why you would get a different result. try it with no brass.....no steel.....no plumbers solder.....no stanless steel nuts.....copper and silver crimped properly and soldered properly. these are the 2 most conductive metals. silver is the most.

once you've made all your crimps hammer or no hammer. throw them all in water for a month and tell me what you get in a month. which one is green and which one is still its original color.

 

A magazine? Are you kidding? What they will prove is that a $1 auto parts battery connector is better or just as good as a $20 high end gold plated specialty car audio connector. Or the $20 RCA cable is as good as the $200 oxygen free nuclear twisted cosmic cable.
They will then loose their advertisers. When was the last time you saw a real, honest critical test comparison in any magazine other than something like consumer reports.
When was the last time a magazine said that a product was crap?

 

OK, found something on crimping.

http://www.groundfusion.com/faq.php

What I am getting at is the multiple cold welds in a correctly done crimp is the key. I do not think you achieve that with a hammer and/or vise. Only a proper tool gives you that.

 

I've always crimped the lugs with a hammer crimper, and then soldered it & shrink wrapped it to lock out the elements.

Never seen one of my connections go bad.

 

When I said hammer I talking about basically crushing the end flat with a hammer on the back of a vise or something, not using a correct battery crimping device like the one listed above... it's obvious that Prolific didn't use one of these as they don't flatten the connector...

regards, Mark

 

I would be very very surprised if any of you have the equipment to accurately measure such low resistances. I have spent 20 years in the electronic test profession. Handheld multimeters can generally measure down to one tenth of an ohm plus or minus one tenth. If you really have one tenth of an ohm resistance, then you are screwed! You would have 5 volts lost when pulling 50 amps! You need to apply a large, known current and measure the voltage accross the joint, then use ohms law to calculate the resistance. You could try this by getting a 1 ohm power resitor and using this as a load. Measure the voltage accross the resistor and you get the current. Then measure the voltage accross various joints and and you can calculate the resistance.
A crimped connection is by definition a cold weld done under high force. A hammer flattening a connector is not a crimp. The flat connector has no chance to apply and keep applying the force necessary. There are probably cracks in the metal where the fold is. If you are doing this, then it is imperative to solder it. Crimp joints are tested by pulling. A 10 gauge should support 150lb pull. A 4 or 0 gauge crimp should hold many hundreds of pounds. Can yours?

 

Either way you decide to do it, as long as it's a very tight connection, I don't think you're going to see much sound difference no matter what. You can solder, or you can crimp, as long as it's together nice and tight, it's not gonna be a huge deal either way!

Between the two, I'd say soldering looks better and will certainly hold together the best. Where as if you crimp any rusting or metal deterioration could result in a cable coming loose. But as far as performance, come on, if it's a tight connection it's all gonna sound the same coming out of your speakers.

 

Yea. lets kill this tread and spend more time listening to music!

 

Good enough, and the right way are 2 different animals in Car audio, and in my setup's I choose the latter. This is nothing against Prolifics choice in termination methods, I just wondered why he chose that route, and he told me why... his reasoning for doing it that way makes sense, that it would be easier to load a battery terminal or buss bar with flatened terminials, I would have just made a buss bar with multiple holes so that my soldered ring terminals didn't have to be stacked...

but either way, I was just wondering.

regards, Mark