Hey guys,

Been having this issue for..way too long now and can't seem to find myself the cure.

I've had this issue over 2 different setups (first setup got robbed before I found the issue)

I keep getting powerloss/drops when I turn my system up,

I drive a 98 civic, just changed the alternator out this year for a new one, got a new battery last year. I've also done the big "2" (have not done the 3rd wire

Also I have tried hooking up a 1 farrad cap, and using jumper cables connecting my car battery to my freinds (same car) while both cars running - still happens.

Old setup was 2x alpine 12" type R's and a hifonics brutus 1200 watt amp

New setup is 2x Diamond M6's and a 1500.1 Arc Audio amp.

Im at loss what to even try next, since a cap and hooking up 2 car batterys/alternators didn't do a dang thing either.

 

What size power wire? Which of the "big 3" have you not yet completed?

 

4 gauge wiring, my negative for my amp is less than a foot from chassis ground - Best grounding spot possible on my car.

The missing cable for the big 3 is the positive battery to alternator. But - considering we had 2 battery/alternators powering my system, wouldn't that not play a part in this?

Really not sure what else could cause this light dimming.

 

I'm not a 100% on this one i'm just curious though, maybe because it's a smaller car it has a smaller battery and alternator and it just can't keep up to this much power being asked of it. I have a 2008 dodge ram with two type r's and a 1 farad cap but i'm looking to upgrade to a bigger cap, because my lights still dim...even though the system never stops pumping ha ha. so going off this i'm thinking that my battery being double the size and cca of your and a bigger alternator that maybe the same sytem in your car is going to suck it dry...

 

I could understand that...but

Like I said, we used jumper cables to connect my car battery to my friends. So 2 civics running (so battery plus alternator) and it still does it.

 

maybe you need to use another car and not another civic? I'm not 100% percent just trying to help you work this out, and i find talking stuff through always seems to work or draw enough attention from someone else who does know lol.

 

You may have just answered your own question.... add the 3rd piece of 4ga from your alt to battery and see if it helps. If the 2nd alt was connected to your car with 4ga (or smaller) booster cables(even longer than your main power) it may not have been giving you as much help as you thought......that alt was trying to keep another vehicle/load powered at the same time, and if there are any problems with that car's electricals......

If your battery and alt are still working correctly this should make a visible and audible difference....if it doesn't, get a mechanic to check your charging system......

HTH

 

That makes sense to me, never really took into consideration the booster cables, i know at work we sell the cheepy ones and the good ones and the chep one's are like 8 gauge

 

You said you changed the alt out. Did you get a high output alt? or just a new stock one? finishing up the big 3, I assume would make a difference too. If possible, it would be a good idea to use 0 gauge wiring for the big 3.

 

Could not get a highout put alt for my car, they don't make one. And I checked with my mechanic whom called numourous places that respin alts in my city - and none of them could do it to my alt.

I have a Canadian Honda Civic SI (1998) which has a few minor differences from the US version (Civic EX) - The alternator has a 3 pin system instead of a 4 if I remember correctly, and for some reason they could not do anything for these alts.

And I get the feeling I am having some other electrical issues that may be related to this, If I push up on my power windows, with no system cranked and it completly off - My lights dim. If I hold down both driver/passenger windows, it dims even more. Is the draw for power for those really that high?