Waiting for Orion tech support...
04-29-2004, 10:07 AM
#1
500 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
Waiting for Orion tech support to reply, but maybe some of you techs might have an idea...
My new Orion XTR900 amplifier keeps blowing a small resistor, and we can't figure out why... I think the board's going to be bad, as none of my other amps have ever had a problem.
The circuit is this one pictured:
My stereo shop's electronics technician tested and tested, and can't explain why this circuit keeps heating up. He's tried all the usual bench tests, and more, and it just won't heat up on the bench. He replaced the resistor and it's heating up in the van again.
Here's an old schematic I drew up of my system, The KACS726 amp has been replaced with the XTR900, and the sub has been replaced with an Orion H2 12.2, wired in series, and hooked up to the XTR900 mono. All power cables remain the same, with the addition of a 4Ga cable to ground from the Orion, as well as a 4 ga to a new 1 farad cap. The external crossover pictured has been removed.
Many extra ground have been added, block to frame, tranny to frame, etc. Not knowing what the problem is, I have added an extra ground to my head unit (can never have enough grounds is my motto), and installed a relay on the remote line driving all amplifiers. However, the amp remains on the tech's bench
Anybody know this circuit? What would cause it to fry?
My new Orion XTR900 amplifier keeps blowing a small resistor, and we can't figure out why... I think the board's going to be bad, as none of my other amps have ever had a problem.
The circuit is this one pictured:
My stereo shop's electronics technician tested and tested, and can't explain why this circuit keeps heating up. He's tried all the usual bench tests, and more, and it just won't heat up on the bench. He replaced the resistor and it's heating up in the van again.
Here's an old schematic I drew up of my system, The KACS726 amp has been replaced with the XTR900, and the sub has been replaced with an Orion H2 12.2, wired in series, and hooked up to the XTR900 mono. All power cables remain the same, with the addition of a 4Ga cable to ground from the Orion, as well as a 4 ga to a new 1 farad cap. The external crossover pictured has been removed.
Many extra ground have been added, block to frame, tranny to frame, etc. Not knowing what the problem is, I have added an extra ground to my head unit (can never have enough grounds is my motto), and installed a relay on the remote line driving all amplifiers. However, the amp remains on the tech's bench
Anybody know this circuit? What would cause it to fry?
04-29-2004, 10:35 AM
#2
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 179
Another component must be faulty or there is a short somewhere on the board. I'm sure the tech checked for this but carefully check to whole board for any solder splashes or shorts between pins. The short can be tiny and hard to see, especially around any IC chips. If there are no shorts the only way to find the problem is to start pulling all the components that are in some way connected to that resistor and testing them.
Is there a matching circuit somewhere else on the board. Since it is a stereo amplifier there will probably be another circuit identical to that one somewhere else on the board. Compare the two circuits with a multimeter. And compare the part numbers. The wrong part may have been used at the factory
Another thought. I have an XTR400 and when you bridge it mono you wire it to both positives and then flip the second channel out of phase. I don't know if your amp is like this or not.
Hope this helps or gives you a little background when you talk to orion
Is there a matching circuit somewhere else on the board. Since it is a stereo amplifier there will probably be another circuit identical to that one somewhere else on the board. Compare the two circuits with a multimeter. And compare the part numbers. The wrong part may have been used at the factory
Another thought. I have an XTR400 and when you bridge it mono you wire it to both positives and then flip the second channel out of phase. I don't know if your amp is like this or not.
Hope this helps or gives you a little background when you talk to orion
04-29-2004, 05:01 PM
#3
500 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
Ah... a reply from Orion...
Ok,
Have your tech install a 5 watt or 10 watt resistor. If the problem lies elsewhere in the amp it will surface. If not, this is one of the resistors that are charged with getting rid of back emf from the speaker. Make the resistor the same value as what you are taking out. I think from the layout of the board and the colors that it APPEARS to be(this is a computer screen of course) that the resistor is 180 ohms. If so, replace with 180 ohm 5 or 10 watt and see what happens.
Good luck,
The Orion Tech Dude.
He actually signed his name, it's just not my place to be posting his name all over the internet
So we'll try that tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Ok,
Have your tech install a 5 watt or 10 watt resistor. If the problem lies elsewhere in the amp it will surface. If not, this is one of the resistors that are charged with getting rid of back emf from the speaker. Make the resistor the same value as what you are taking out. I think from the layout of the board and the colors that it APPEARS to be(this is a computer screen of course) that the resistor is 180 ohms. If so, replace with 180 ohm 5 or 10 watt and see what happens.
Good luck,
The Orion Tech Dude.
He actually signed his name, it's just not my place to be posting his name all over the internet
So we'll try that tomorrow. Wish me luck!
04-29-2004, 07:19 PM
#5
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
electromagnetic feedback
its electricity generated by the nonpropelled motion of the speaker
so when the speaker is returning to centre or overshooting it will generate electricity and the only place it has to return to is the amp
..,,,...,,,.., paragraph paragraph
its electricity generated by the nonpropelled motion of the speaker
so when the speaker is returning to centre or overshooting it will generate electricity and the only place it has to return to is the amp
..,,,...,,,.., paragraph paragraph
04-30-2004, 07:37 AM
#6
Contact Automobility Distribution, they were the Orion distributor for the last 10 years. Their techs would know...they have been repairing them longer than DEI has owned them....
Call 1-888-55-START ext 222, speak to Joe
Call 1-888-55-START ext 222, speak to Joe
04-30-2004, 06:15 PM
#7
500 Watt CAFz'r
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
Well, I speant an hour at my stereo shop with the tech. We tested her in the van, with the amp open & on it's back, and his multimeter in hand. All seemed fine.
So I brought it back here, cleaned up the install a bit (moved the cap off the amp board onto it's own) and reinstalled the Orion.
Now, it cuts out. Shuts itself down... For what reason who knows?
I've pretty much had it. They're getting this thing back on Monday morning.
Good thing it's still on my account and I haven't paid for it...
So I brought it back here, cleaned up the install a bit (moved the cap off the amp board onto it's own) and reinstalled the Orion.
Now, it cuts out. Shuts itself down... For what reason who knows?
I've pretty much had it. They're getting this thing back on Monday morning.
Good thing it's still on my account and I haven't paid for it...
05-06-2004, 03:10 PM
#8
500 Watt CAFz'r
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
*sigh*
Well... I rewired a bunch of things in the van, and reinstalled the amp with the already larger transistor.
It heated up within 5 minutes, cut right out, cut in, etc. etc.
So last Monday I took it to him, and he tested in the van. It acted up, he did all sorts of troubleshooting, and freezing components with freon. No conclusion.
So he took it into the shop again, and it works fine on the bench again.
So I've had a busy week, just got back there today. Left him my sub, even though this all started even when I had my old sub.
Everyone's perplexed and intrigued, no one can figure out what the hell could be wrong. I'm still being patient, as I can't just exchange it for another XTR900, as there are no more, it's a discontinued amp.
I can, however, return the amp and get an Orion 1200d, wich would run my sub at 1200 watts at 1 ohm instead of the 900 watts at 4 ohms that the XTR900 is pushing... but it'll run me more money... another 300 or so more... I'm into the XTR900 for under $700, and the 1200d will run me under $1000. Crazy, when the XTR900 sounds fine, WHEN it works. And I'd feel bad for Tom (my stereo dude), having to eat that XTR900 back...
So... I'll remain patient for a bit.
GO FLAMES GO!!!
[ May 06, 2004, 04:11 PM: Message edited by: GrizZz ]
Well... I rewired a bunch of things in the van, and reinstalled the amp with the already larger transistor.
It heated up within 5 minutes, cut right out, cut in, etc. etc.
So last Monday I took it to him, and he tested in the van. It acted up, he did all sorts of troubleshooting, and freezing components with freon. No conclusion.
So he took it into the shop again, and it works fine on the bench again.
So I've had a busy week, just got back there today. Left him my sub, even though this all started even when I had my old sub.
Everyone's perplexed and intrigued, no one can figure out what the hell could be wrong. I'm still being patient, as I can't just exchange it for another XTR900, as there are no more, it's a discontinued amp.
I can, however, return the amp and get an Orion 1200d, wich would run my sub at 1200 watts at 1 ohm instead of the 900 watts at 4 ohms that the XTR900 is pushing... but it'll run me more money... another 300 or so more... I'm into the XTR900 for under $700, and the 1200d will run me under $1000. Crazy, when the XTR900 sounds fine, WHEN it works. And I'd feel bad for Tom (my stereo dude), having to eat that XTR900 back...
So... I'll remain patient for a bit.
GO FLAMES GO!!!
[ May 06, 2004, 04:11 PM: Message edited by: GrizZz ]
05-06-2004, 07:20 PM
#9
If you're running it on the H2 you should know that that sub really comes alive with more power.
The XTR900 really isn't going to make it shine.
$700 for the XTR is a decent price in Canada but if you wanted to buy from the US you could do much better. My 2500D was NIB for $585usd shipped(~$800can). Just a thought.
The XTR900 really isn't going to make it shine.
$700 for the XTR is a decent price in Canada but if you wanted to buy from the US you could do much better. My 2500D was NIB for $585usd shipped(~$800can). Just a thought.
05-27-2004, 07:05 PM
#10
500 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
So, nobody could figure out what was wrong with that XTR900, not even Orion.
So I'm now a proud owner of an Orion 1200D. [img]graemlins/jammin.gif[/img] And man, it is SO much better than the XTR ever was... It sounds deadly.
Anyway, dialing it in (by ear) has proven to be a ____. Anyone suggest some good settings for a 1200D pushing an Orion H2 12.2 at 1 ohm, in a 1 cu. ft. sealed slot-firing (2in. mdf constructed & downfiring) box? Right now, I have the low pass at about 45, and the subsonic around 30, with the Intelli Q up at 9 o'clock, there are no markings.
Also, I'll be installing my rear 6x9's shortly, with my spare amp. I was gonna build boxes for them, and hang them midship in the van, behind the rear bench seat (I have no third row seating, it's a cargo van). So, for a rear stage, should I put them in those small sealed 6x9 boxes, or should I make larger boxes for them? Specifics?
Thanks!
So I'm now a proud owner of an Orion 1200D. [img]graemlins/jammin.gif[/img] And man, it is SO much better than the XTR ever was... It sounds deadly.
Anyway, dialing it in (by ear) has proven to be a ____. Anyone suggest some good settings for a 1200D pushing an Orion H2 12.2 at 1 ohm, in a 1 cu. ft. sealed slot-firing (2in. mdf constructed & downfiring) box? Right now, I have the low pass at about 45, and the subsonic around 30, with the Intelli Q up at 9 o'clock, there are no markings.
Also, I'll be installing my rear 6x9's shortly, with my spare amp. I was gonna build boxes for them, and hang them midship in the van, behind the rear bench seat (I have no third row seating, it's a cargo van). So, for a rear stage, should I put them in those small sealed 6x9 boxes, or should I make larger boxes for them? Specifics?
Thanks!
