Penetrating Oils
Guest
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Heat the bolt with a torch, make sure its hot all the way thru. Let it cool to the point that LPS or WD or whatever won't burst into flames. Spray the bolt. The heat will help to wick the solution into the bolt and it will come off easier.
I use this ZEP stuff, smells like bananas. Otherwise, WD-40 works.
I use this ZEP stuff, smells like bananas. Otherwise, WD-40 works.
500 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 648
Originally posted by dodgeram:
you need a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a 3ft pipe on the end of it
you need a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a 3ft pipe on the end of it
[img]graemlins/beer.gif[/img]
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,171
Originally posted by Mullen:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by dodgeram:
you need a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a 3ft pipe on the end of it
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by dodgeram:
you need a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a 3ft pipe on the end of it
[img]graemlins/beer.gif[/img] </font>[/QUOTE]i dare ya to try and shear off an axel nut !! [img]tongue.gif[/img]
as for the heat in the bearring - odds are if a mechanic couldnt get it off with his impact gun he`d toss some heat to it, prolly be best to use a welding/brasing tip (small flame) rather than a heating/cutting one
maybe ger one spot red hot then hit it with the impact/breaker bar, basically dont try and soak the area with heat
as for the bearring - should be a sealed unit, no repack
how about actual penetrating oil? I've used that more times than I can count, on rusted exhaust parts, bearing parts, the lawnmower, just about everywhere, and it works at least as well as any of the other gunk you guys are slinging. WD40 isn't that great, because it contains silicone, which will eat away your paintjob. (working at the lexus plant in cambridge, there was NO WD40 allowed in the building, because it will hang in the air, get on the car, and the paint, and wreck the paint job.)
