Table saw blades..
#4
Originally posted by MrEastSide:
I don't think you should be using a table saw. You might hurt yourself!
I don't think you should be using a table saw. You might hurt yourself!
#5
Originally posted by Chris B:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by MrEastSide:
I don't think you should be using a table saw. You might hurt yourself!
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by MrEastSide:
I don't think you should be using a table saw. You might hurt yourself!
In shop class, a guy was cutting some plywood, and the paice of woof came back and hit him riught in the ********. He didnt come back to school for a day or two.
#7
IMO don't buy a blade from CT or Sear's. Both tend to use softer carbide than others available.
I would suggest a Dimar Woodpecker series thin curf blade or a Frued Diablo series thin curf blade. Either on with about 40 teeth or so will give you a nice quick but relatively smooth cut. It will run you about $50-70 for either one but they also have enough carbide to be sharpened 3-6 times.
I personally use Dimar brand blades and love them (my 72 tooth runs about $190+ )
I would suggest a Dimar Woodpecker series thin curf blade or a Frued Diablo series thin curf blade. Either on with about 40 teeth or so will give you a nice quick but relatively smooth cut. It will run you about $50-70 for either one but they also have enough carbide to be sharpened 3-6 times.
I personally use Dimar brand blades and love them (my 72 tooth runs about $190+ )
#8
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Posts: n/a
I bought the 10" 40tooth here: http://www.exchangeablade.com/catalo...categoryID=133 from Revy and that thing is great. Yeah it's more of a decking blade but aside from being a little noisy it rips through anything I cut but doesn't 'grab' ABS or plexi the way regular low tooth count blades do.
The in-store display of this blade cutting another one in half is what grabbed my attention.
Plus it was pretty inexpensive and being an Exchang-a-Blade when it dulls you go get a new one (y) (have not had to yet though)
The in-store display of this blade cutting another one in half is what grabbed my attention.
Plus it was pretty inexpensive and being an Exchang-a-Blade when it dulls you go get a new one (y) (have not had to yet though)
#9
Originally posted by CaptDeth:
IMO don't buy a blade from CT or Sear's. Both tend to use softer carbide than others available.
IMO don't buy a blade from CT or Sear's. Both tend to use softer carbide than others available.
i probably have used them more than you have or most hobbiest would
they even cut nails
and will probably due fine for most hobbiests
whats the rockwell hardness of the ct or sears have you had them tested?
p.s. are you haunz's brother
and are you an imo expert
from my findings from ct blades
your imo is not worth concidering
[ July 14, 2003, 04:33 PM: Message edited by: pinhead ]
#10
Originally posted by pinhead:
really i have two of them that are over fifteen years old
i probably have used them more than you have or most hobbiest would
they even cut nails
and will probably due fine for most hobbiests
whats the rockwell hardness of the ct or sears have you had them tested?
p.s. are you haunz's brother
and are you an imo expert
from my findings from ct blades
your imo is not worth concidering
really i have two of them that are over fifteen years old
i probably have used them more than you have or most hobbiest would
they even cut nails
and will probably due fine for most hobbiests
whats the rockwell hardness of the ct or sears have you had them tested?
p.s. are you haunz's brother
and are you an imo expert
from my findings from ct blades
your imo is not worth concidering
Not saying the cheaper ones are all bad (heck, one of the best blades I know of is a stock blade from a Delta cabinet saw my buddies shop bought) BUT you can rely on a company like Feud or Dimar to consistantly sell a good blade year after year.
[ July 14, 2003, 05:04 PM: Message edited by: CaptDeth ]