http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ctGroup_ID=417


^There is a gallery of about 40 different ones to choose from. I've dealt with partexpress.com and was very impressed. Hope that helps. Those ones with the push style terminals at the top of this page are very cheap... and highly not recommonded since they can't accept very thick wire at all.. and break very easily.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-314

I highly recommend this one.. since you only need to drill two holes for the wire to come through into the box.. rather then router out a 10cm hole for an actual terminal cup.

 

When I build boxes I always run a bead of sillicone in behind them, personally.

 

drill hole... place wire in... hook up subs... put silly cone in... hook up to amp and thumpy mc dumpy in the rumpy is where its at. lol thus concludes my useless info post and hopefully it helps. lol

 

When I build boxes I always run a bead of sillicone in behind them, personally. </font>[/QUOTE]yes good idea. mine leaked throght the in the part where you stick the wire thought. silicone also fixed that.

 

The only part I don't like about that is if I decide to take the box out for whatever reason its easier to just unclip the wires

JRace - I'll more than likely pick that type up, I didn't know about the whole clip ones only working with 16 gauge wire etc. Thanks [img]smile.gif[/img]

 

Neutrik NL4MPR.....



Doesn't leak...... easy twist disconnect.... takes a heapin whack load of power.....

Just my $0.02

Gus

 

^ damn twist locks are hardcore... [img]graemlins/bow.gif[/img]

 

Whoa never heard or seen one of those lol

 

Really? Wow....

Commonly found hanging out on the input side of pretty much every industrial speaker enclosure on the planet. Also available in 8 conductor versions (NL8MPR).

Thing I like about them, you pull the connector, and no bare wires to short together, can't even touch the conductors. And, they take up to 12ga. wire no problemo.

Gus