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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 09:06 PM
  #11  
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Originally posted by juniorsfse:
make sure to keep the sand paper very wet and never use a sanding block. [/QUOTE]

wouldnt you want to use a sanding block to prevent the paint from rippling in the area that your sanding?? [/QB][/QUOTE]

yes...you would

[ June 03, 2004, 10:07 PM: Message edited by: bigunner1 ]
Old Jun 4, 2004 | 04:58 AM
  #13  
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Originally posted by DWVW:
Get a wet sanding block, they are thick foam rubber so they will curve a little bit.
don't do it, duff it out by hand and it will come out better
Old Jun 4, 2004 | 06:44 AM
  #14  
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Originally posted by DWVW:
Get a wet sanding block, they are thick foam rubber so they will curve a little bit.
i have to side with derek on this one, it would be your best bet. plus all blocks aren't "blocks". there is even teardrop shaped blocks which are awesome for curves. you could even use a piece of rad hose with sandpaper wrapped around it for inside round edges. sanding by hand will never get a surface truly flat.(or round for that matter)

[ June 04, 2004, 07:50 AM: Message edited by: bigunner1 ]
Old Jun 4, 2004 | 09:03 AM
  #16  
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I usually soak my paper for 20 minutes or so in water, I find it works better
Old Jun 4, 2004 | 09:04 AM
  #17  
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Originally posted by bigmike216:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Nissan Guy:
I think I have mastered the long straight strokes
[img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img] </font>[/QUOTE]Hehehehehehehe, beat me to it
Old Jun 4, 2004 | 09:26 AM
  #18  
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Originally posted by bigunner1:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by DWVW:
Get a wet sanding block, they are thick foam rubber so they will curve a little bit.
i have to side with derek on this one, it would be your best bet. plus all blocks aren't "blocks". there is even teardrop shaped blocks which are awesome for curves. you could even use a piece of rad hose with sandpaper wrapped around it for inside round edges. sanding by hand will never get a surface truly flat.(or round for that matter) </font>[/QUOTE]He is looking at sanding his paint job not filler so you are not trying to get the surface flatter, I would also asssume a car is like the bath tubs I use to work on where there are not alot of truely flat surfaces.

All I can give is my results with blocks and I have found Iget a better finished product (takes longer) by hand. no matter how large the area.
Old Jun 4, 2004 | 10:12 AM
  #19  
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interesting, I'll have to have a look at some blocks to see if they will do the job.
The item is basically a custom dash kit, so it is small in surface area. However, some 'friends' of mine put their beer cases on my tonneau cover, and scratched the crap out of it, and I was wondering if I could use similar techniques to remove those scratches. Thanks gents.
Old Jun 4, 2004 | 11:46 AM
  #20  
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sanding paint is the same as sanding filler. where ever your paper touches the paint it removes it, if you remove more in any area than another, even just leaving "finger lines" from not using a block will show up when you buff the gloss back. and Tim also makes an excellent point, let your paper soak before using it, it softens the edges when you wrap it around your block. thats where sanding scratches come from 99% of the time, is the leading edge of the paper. as for your tonneau cover, do the scratches disappear when they are wet (even spit on your finger and rub the scratch). if they go away, the scratch is in the clear and can be sanded and buffed out. if it doesn't go away when you wet it, then its to far gone.



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