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Proper Fuses

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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 01:09 PM
  #1  
TragicMagic's Avatar
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Proper Fuses

The Memphis Belle amp I`m using (on loan from a friend) has 6, 30amp fuses on its underside. A 180amp total. The inline fuse at the battery is only 50amp. I have not had any issues with my audio playback, amp shutting down, or blown fuses.
But to be on the safe side I should put a larger fuse in, eh. Should I put something in that`s equivalent to what the amp has, or does it need to be that high

Just came across this. Might be helpful to other noobs.

Calculating the Fuse Size

A common car audio question I get is, "What size should my fuse be?". This is almost always in regards to the main power fuse. The most important component you'll install in a car audio system. This is the fuse that protects the system and your vehicle and is located within inches of the battery. Choosing a fuse size that is too large will not provide adequate protection and choosing one that is too small will cause a lot of blown fuses. Here's a few guidelines you need to know when locating and sizing the main power fuse for your car audio system.

1. Location - The only function of the main power fuse is to protect the main power wire. This in turn protects the vehicle. Without the fuse a short in the main power wire could cause excessive current to ignite the wire and eventually the vehicle (it's happened). This is why you want the distance between the battery clamp and the main power fuse as short as possible. Any length of cable between the fuse holder and the battery clamp will be unprotected. The general sound off rule is eighteen inches but the shorter the better.
2. Current Handling - The fuse needs to handle the power that will flow through the cable under maximum operating conditions (full power) and no more (ideally). To determine the maximum amount of current that will be needed you will need to know the current draw of each part of the system that draws power from the main wire. For example, if you have two amplifiers that draw 30 amps and 50 amps respectively you'd want to use an 80 amp fuse.
3. Fuse Type - There are three main types of fuses used in car audio. The most common is the barrel (cylindrical) fuse which may be an AGC or AGU type. The second most common is the blade fuse which is the type most often found in your vehicle's fuse box. Large blade fuses are used in some fuse holders and may be referred to as a MAXI fuse. The least common type of fuse is the ANL or "wafer" fuse. These are used in the larger fuse holders when high current handling is required. Typically 100 amps and higher. The type you use will depend on the current capacity needed and your own preference. For draws of less than 100 amps expect to use a barrel fuse. For currents larger than that you'll probably be looking at the more expensive wafer fuse.
4. Fuse Size - Using the method in item two you'll be able to choose the size of the fuse you need. But what if you have a current draw that is greater than one value of fuse but less than another (i.e. 125 amp). In this case you have the option of either choosing a 100 amp fuse or a 150 amp fuse. I always go for the larger fuse to reduce the chance of accidental fuse blows. However you may choose to go with a smaller fuse for greater short circuit protection. Just keep in mind that if you keep blowing fuses you'll probably need to move up to the next size. But if you're blowing fuses and you've sized it correctly for your current draw you may have another problem. Time to break out the multi-meter and check for problems.
Old Oct 16, 2008 | 01:55 PM
  #2  
scuba789's Avatar
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If you aren't blowing fuses then don't bother. Your system is working fine. If you use a higher amperage fuse then you aren't making your system any safer. If you want to just measure your amps max current draw and use the appropriate fuse.
Old Oct 16, 2008 | 01:59 PM
  #3  
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The fuse close to the battery has 1 big purpose. That is to keep your car from catching on fire if the power wire accidentally grounds out. A fuse just big enough not to blow would be the correct choice.
Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:20 PM
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wow a fuse thread where I actually agree with every post!! how long can this last?
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 12:46 AM
  #5  
TragicMagic's Avatar
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Like I said I haven't had any issues. I more interested in knowing whether or not the amp would work more efficiently with a properly matched fuse. I recently bought a Digital Multi-Meter... how would I set that up, and where would I touch the prongs to, to see the amp reading?
The amp I have is 1 ohm stable, but only has a 4 ohm load on it right now. If I were to load the amp with a 2 ohm sub configuration, I'd be drawing in more amps. And might, at that point, require a larger fuse.
Is there a direct/indirect relationship between the resistance the amplifier is working against, and the amount of amps it draws?
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 01:50 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by TragicMagic
The amp I have is 1 ohm stable, but only has a 4 ohm load on it right now. If I were to load the amp with a 2 ohm sub configuration, I'd be drawing in more amps. And might, at that point, require a larger fuse.
Is there a direct/indirect relationship between the resistance the amplifier is working against, and the amount of amps it draws?
yes if you drop the load the amp will require more current, however you may not have to change the fuse. As mentioned before the fuse is there to protect your car from a short. It is designed to blow(open circuit) when a pre determined amount of current(fuse rating) flows through it. It does not effect the amps efficiency in any way. You will not be able to measure the current draw with a simple DMM because most of them are rated to 10-20 amps at best. An amp running with a larger current draw would surely damage the DMM. If you were going to try and hook it up you would have to do so in series with the power wire going to the amp, but I wouldn't try it if I were you.

Last edited by godzilla1978; Oct 17, 2008 at 01:51 AM. Reason: spelling
Old Oct 17, 2008 | 12:43 PM
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Thanks Godzilla.
I didn't know if I were able to check. I think it would be interesting, however, just to see how much the amp is drawing. I'm very happy with how my system performs, but it'd be cool to see how much current the amp needs to perform like it is right now.
With the sub configuration I plan on implementing (two single voice coil 8ohm, in parallel) I wouldn't be changing the resistance any way.

Since I've never blown this 50 ampere fuse, obviously I've never exceeded that current draw...

There is another thread where someone with a small car with a 85 ampere alternator was asking if that unit was sufficient for a sound system. I gather a lot of that has to do with how efficient the amplifier is at doing its job. On the owner manuals you can view online for amplifiers, is the efficiency of the amplifier stated? How is it measured, and what would it be referred to on the specs?
Old Oct 18, 2008 | 10:26 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by TragicMagic
Thanks Godzilla.
I didn't know if I were able to check. I think it would be interesting, however, just to see how much the amp is drawing. I'm very happy with how my system performs, but it'd be cool to see how much current the amp needs to perform like it is right now.
With the sub configuration I plan on implementing (two single voice coil 8ohm, in parallel) I wouldn't be changing the resistance any way.

Since I've never blown this 50 ampere fuse, obviously I've never exceeded that current draw...

There is another thread where someone with a small car with a 85 ampere alternator was asking if that unit was sufficient for a sound system. I gather a lot of that has to do with how efficient the amplifier is at doing its job. On the owner manuals you can view online for amplifiers, is the efficiency of the amplifier stated? How is it measured, and what would it be referred to on the specs?
the reason that the 85 amp alternator is not sufficient is because the audio system is not the only thing running in the car. If the alternator cannot provide enough current the current is taken from the battery. But your alternator is supposed to charge your battery. So if your alternator is always trying to charge a constant draw on your battery somethings gotta give! Yes some companies tell you the efficiency rating of their amps but there is a general rule of thumb most A/B class(4 channel,2 channel) amps are around 45-55% efficient and D class amps(most mono block) are 75-85% efficient. Unfortunately you would need a DC clamp meter to measure the current draw going in. These clamp meters are quite expensive, a mechanic may have one to borrow.The house voltage ones don't work as they measure AC current.

Last edited by godzilla1978; Oct 18, 2008 at 10:28 AM.
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