how well would this work?
how well would this work?
Our front stage consists of Diamond Audio 662S 6.5 " mids and silk tweeters mounted in pods in the lower door.
The crossover with the 662 has a full pass output, its meant to give aprox 25-30% of the given power to rear fill speakers.
We don't use it currently
I've been giving some thought to mounting 3.5 inch coaxials on/beside the sail panels and running them off the 662's crossover. Hoping to give me more "UP" sound
The 662s can't quite handle the power we could give them, so that channel has some juice to give any 3.5s I put in a go.
The sail panels are about 6-8 inches closer to the ear than the lower mids/tweets, and since they'll be on the same channel , even if I had T/A I couldn't set them up.
Sooooo.
Just how "bad" for soundstage/SQ would having the 3.5s closer than the others be?
And is there any fix other than moving them further away?
The crossover with the 662 has a full pass output, its meant to give aprox 25-30% of the given power to rear fill speakers.
We don't use it currently
I've been giving some thought to mounting 3.5 inch coaxials on/beside the sail panels and running them off the 662's crossover. Hoping to give me more "UP" sound
The 662s can't quite handle the power we could give them, so that channel has some juice to give any 3.5s I put in a go.
The sail panels are about 6-8 inches closer to the ear than the lower mids/tweets, and since they'll be on the same channel , even if I had T/A I couldn't set them up.
Sooooo.
Just how "bad" for soundstage/SQ would having the 3.5s closer than the others be?
And is there any fix other than moving them further away?
I had a similar but lesser set up for my front stage. Infinity 5 1/4" components, woofer in kick panel and tweeter in the door. The car had a spot about 6" below the tweeter location for 3" speakers (part of the factory 3 way system) so I mounted 3.5's there and powered them with a separate amp as the amp for the components had rca pass through. This did not sound good and I changed my front stage after about a month of listening.
However I tried it because the 5 1/4 way down by my feet was not aimed at the driver and was playing everything from 3600hz down to 100-80hz so clearly something had to be done. But the 3.5' full range speaker was not the answer, I had to resort to other measures to make the sound a little more complete.
You've spent the money and time making sure you have the proper frequencies being sent to speakers that are efficient at reproducing them. Now the 3.5 will get a full range signal and wash away your clear sound, not to mention fukk your sound stage.
Have you got 3 way active capability on your HU?
However I tried it because the 5 1/4 way down by my feet was not aimed at the driver and was playing everything from 3600hz down to 100-80hz so clearly something had to be done. But the 3.5' full range speaker was not the answer, I had to resort to other measures to make the sound a little more complete.
You've spent the money and time making sure you have the proper frequencies being sent to speakers that are efficient at reproducing them. Now the 3.5 will get a full range signal and wash away your clear sound, not to mention fukk your sound stage.
Have you got 3 way active capability on your HU?
3 way active?? Not sure what you mean? 3 rca outs? Time alignment?
But anyway, Thanks for the reply guys, good points Nat.
Back to the rethinking board..
Not sure why I thought cheap little speakers would help my sq....must be sick
But anyway, Thanks for the reply guys, good points Nat.
Back to the rethinking board..
Not sure why I thought cheap little speakers would help my sq....must be sick

Filling a hole in frequency response by adding speakers can help your front stage a lot....adding them to get a little more volume not so much....

HTH
Nope... just running 2 way up front on 2 channels and some 6 inch mids on the other 2 channels for rear filll.
Dang red... How'd you know it wasn't just frequency I was after??
We're gonna need more mids/high volume once the system is reworked. I guess 3.5" 30 watt speakers don't really increase spl much...lmao
If I could, I'd get the 6.5 inch DAT - 3 way add on midbass and tune the other 6.5"s a little higher..but
Only problem is, the add-on costs more than the whole component set did
originally.
The DAT 3.5"s are cheeeeap..
AHHH bahh,, I'll keep thinking/looking, thanks bro
Dang red... How'd you know it wasn't just frequency I was after??
We're gonna need more mids/high volume once the system is reworked. I guess 3.5" 30 watt speakers don't really increase spl much...lmao
If I could, I'd get the 6.5 inch DAT - 3 way add on midbass and tune the other 6.5"s a little higher..but
Only problem is, the add-on costs more than the whole component set did
The DAT 3.5"s are cheeeeap..
AHHH bahh,, I'll keep thinking/looking, thanks bro
Nope... just running 2 way up front on 2 channels and some 6 inch mids on the other 2 channels for rear filll.
Dang red... How'd you know it wasn't just frequency I was after??
We're gonna need more mids/high volume once the system is reworked. I guess 3.5" 30 watt speakers don't really increase spl much...lmao
If I could, I'd get the 6.5 inch DAT - 3 way add on midbass and tune the other 6.5"s a little higher..but
Only problem is, the add-on costs more than the whole component set did
originally.
The DAT 3.5"s are cheeeeap..
AHHH bahh,, I'll keep thinking/looking, thanks bro
Dang red... How'd you know it wasn't just frequency I was after??
We're gonna need more mids/high volume once the system is reworked. I guess 3.5" 30 watt speakers don't really increase spl much...lmao
If I could, I'd get the 6.5 inch DAT - 3 way add on midbass and tune the other 6.5"s a little higher..but
Only problem is, the add-on costs more than the whole component set did
The DAT 3.5"s are cheeeeap..
AHHH bahh,, I'll keep thinking/looking, thanks bro

I have a pair of Orion MB6 midbass drivers that would be an interesting add-on for your doors.....if you can move the comps further up in the doors (maybe put the tweets in the A pillars?) and throw these in the pods all it would take is some electronics and you're laughing......

You can even have them for cheeeeap.....

LMK
Considering how loud you're trying to get the van, call it a lucky guess.....
I have a pair of Orion MB6 midbass drivers that would be an interesting add-on for your doors.....if you can move the comps further up in the doors (maybe put the tweets in the A pillars?) and throw these in the pods all it would take is some electronics and you're laughing......
You can even have them for cheeeeap.....
LMK

I have a pair of Orion MB6 midbass drivers that would be an interesting add-on for your doors.....if you can move the comps further up in the doors (maybe put the tweets in the A pillars?) and throw these in the pods all it would take is some electronics and you're laughing......

You can even have them for cheeeeap.....

LMK
We're still throwing around ideas, but I like the idea of moving the excisting pods up and adding the midbass under them, that may work, I'll have to check fitment on that!!

My bros lady doesn't care much for the pods we do have on the doors, since they stick out 4+ inches at her feet.
but....
If we were to raise them, and use the DAT 6.5 for midrange, slimming the pods an inch or two would help with the higher freq. response no? Leave the lower pods for the midbass at 4" and that would help with lower freq response?? Is that right?
Would be cool to have new 3 hole pods, but I would probably need to custom make them, the Montana isn't a vehicle with many aftermarket parts...lol
Cheeeeap is gooood !
We're still throwing around ideas, but I like the idea of moving the excisting pods up and adding the midbass under them, that may work, I'll have to check fitment on that!!
My bros lady doesn't care much for the pods we do have on the doors, since they stick out 4+ inches at her feet.
but....
If we were to raise them, and use the DAT 6.5 for midrange, slimming the pods an inch or two would help with the higher freq. response no? Leave the lower pods for the midbass at 4" and that would help with lower freq response?? Is that right?
Would be cool to have new 3 hole pods, but I would probably need to custom make them, the Montana isn't a vehicle with many aftermarket parts...lol
We're still throwing around ideas, but I like the idea of moving the excisting pods up and adding the midbass under them, that may work, I'll have to check fitment on that!!

My bros lady doesn't care much for the pods we do have on the doors, since they stick out 4+ inches at her feet.
but....
If we were to raise them, and use the DAT 6.5 for midrange, slimming the pods an inch or two would help with the higher freq. response no? Leave the lower pods for the midbass at 4" and that would help with lower freq response?? Is that right?
Would be cool to have new 3 hole pods, but I would probably need to custom make them, the Montana isn't a vehicle with many aftermarket parts...lol
LMK if you want them.....getting them to you without a dogsled could be dicey after Dec. 1st......

Just remember you will need 2 more amp channels and an extra xover to create the passband for the midbass drivers.....oddly enough I may be able to help with that as well.....it's amazing how much stuff I have in my basement.....
Slimming the pod sizes will not make that big a difference in sound.....certainly not as much as isolating the back of the midbass and midrange from each other will. Even that is not uber-critical since they do over lap a bit and being so close together and on the same plane should minimize any phase differences.
LMK if you want them.....getting them to you without a dogsled could be dicey after Dec. 1st......
Just remember you will need 2 more amp channels and an extra xover to create the passband for the midbass drivers.....oddly enough I may be able to help with that as well.....it's amazing how much stuff I have in my basement.....
LMK if you want them.....getting them to you without a dogsled could be dicey after Dec. 1st......

Just remember you will need 2 more amp channels and an extra xover to create the passband for the midbass drivers.....oddly enough I may be able to help with that as well.....it's amazing how much stuff I have in my basement.....

We could run the 2 midbass off of it, but no left/right then, being on the same channel.
How about running a single midbass between the front seats, firing up off the dash back to us?? I could probably make the distance the same as the mids after the reflection.

Have a 2 channel clarion thats 100x2 also, obviosly the best bet for good sound etc.
The biggest problem I see with adding the clarion is finding space for another amp behind the rear seats!!! lol


