Im looking at this amp right now and it says this in the specs:

# RMS Power Rating (14.4V):

* 4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan.
* 2 ohms: 110 watts x 4 chan.
* Bridged (4 ohms): 220 watts x 2 chan.
* Bridged (8 ohms): 140 watts x 2 chan.

# RMS Power Rating (12.5V):

* 4 ohms: 45 watts x 4 chan.
* 2 ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan.
* Bridged (4 ohms): 150 watts x 2 chan.
* Bridged (8 ohms): 90 watts x 2 chan.

Why does it list 2 different voltages?

 

At least they list both to be close to honest.

Your alternator charges at about 14 volts. The theory is 14.4 but only under perfect conditions and only in theory. Put a high current load on there and it will drop voltage.

When the car is OFF, you're running the amp off battery voltage only. There, the theory is 13.2 volts. (6 cells at 2.2 v each). reality is closer to 12.5. Put a high current load on it and it will drop voltage too.

For instance, take your battery to canadian tire for the "Free" battery test.
They'll put a 200 amp load on it and Show you the voltage drop to 10 volts, simulating starting. You can keep the load on it for 1 minute and watch voltage drop to 9, then 8, then 7.....
Then they try to sell you a battery.

Bottom line, better than average alt and better than average battery and you'll be good to go. Don't expect to run a high power system without upgrading you cars electrical system. But that baby amp alone won't draw enough to worry about.

 

That is why I don't bring my vehicle there any more!

 

uhm you don't load test a battery for a minute , 15 seconds max . and it only has to do 9.6 volts or better at half cca .

 

I thought that they stopped testing batteries like that in the 1980's.