Drop in output power from amp...
Drop in output power from amp...
I recently went to tweak my MTX TA92001 amp output, and came to find out that I actually had to turn the gains down to prevent the amp from clipping.
When I originally set the gains it wasn't clipping, but now at the same gain level as before, it is.
Any suggestions as to why I lost power?
When I originally set the gains it wasn't clipping, but now at the same gain level as before, it is.
Any suggestions as to why I lost power?
did you have the same input voltage (from the batt)? exact same deck settings? same boost levels etc? all of this effects the amount of gain you can dial in to an amp... for example if you had the bass at 0 on the deck then set the amp but now you drive with bass set at +3 this could cause the clip.
I'm not sure if the input voltage from the battery is the same, because I never checked the first time I tuned it.
The reason why I have to reset the gains on the amp, is because I disabled the loudness option on my deck to allow a flatter response in the bass range.
I was hoping to now be able to turn the gains up as a result of disabling loudness, but instead had to turn the gains down to even less than before.
The reason why I have to reset the gains on the amp, is because I disabled the loudness option on my deck to allow a flatter response in the bass range.
I was hoping to now be able to turn the gains up as a result of disabling loudness, but instead had to turn the gains down to even less than before.
ok input voltage makes a big difference in what the amp can do... but... having turned down the gain a bit is there a noticeable difference in sound output? I know in my car after about 1/2 way there isnt a difference as my car just doesnt have the voltage to back it up
It definitely isn't anywhere near as loud as it used to be now that I had to turn the gain down, to the point that I'm disappointed in the system.
The output wattage from the amp is about half of what it used to be using the watt calculation method (volts^2/ohms=watts). 51 volts output currently which equals about 1,300W. I calculated about 2000W from measurements taken the last time I set it up (61 volts or so). I might have to pull out the amp clamp to verify the true output, but I'm pretty sure it's still down.
No sign of the fault light on the amp, no audible faults, and both subs are functional, so the load is still 2ohms. If a sub had blown, they are 4 ohms wired in paralell so that would explain a halving of output because the impedance would double to a total of 4.
The output wattage from the amp is about half of what it used to be using the watt calculation method (volts^2/ohms=watts). 51 volts output currently which equals about 1,300W. I calculated about 2000W from measurements taken the last time I set it up (61 volts or so). I might have to pull out the amp clamp to verify the true output, but I'm pretty sure it's still down.
No sign of the fault light on the amp, no audible faults, and both subs are functional, so the load is still 2ohms. If a sub had blown, they are 4 ohms wired in paralell so that would explain a halving of output because the impedance would double to a total of 4.
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Nov 28, 2005 10:45 PM
