Help needed-2001 Lexus IS300 doorlocks with compustar FM 2 way alarm
03-23-2006, 12:58 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 43
Help needed-2001 Lexus IS300 doorlocks with compustar FM 2 way alarm
Hey guys, Compustar is completely installed and working except the door locks. It seems I can lock them but not unlock them. I checked Bulldog's website which gave me this doorlock interface diagram......
http://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagram...0interface.pdf
...........it states that I split the Blue/black wire to a relay contacts between 30 & 87a then 86 goes to BOTH my lock output from the compustar lock wire and to the cars lock which it says is green/red. 85 goes to 12v fused. 87 not used. Now heres where the trouble starts...green/black (cars unlock wire)diode isolated and attached to the door electronic control unit side of the blue/black wire which is (87a) is the two they claim needs a neg pulse from my compustar......It would lock all doors except the drivers and then 20 secs later the drivers would lock. But nothing for unlock as the car must be shorting out the compustar unlock wire???
When this didn't work I looked for other wires to unlock using a computer safe test light. When I checked with a friends Astrochart program it stated those same wires but also in the drivers kick that there were also Blue/red to lock and Blue/black to unlock. My compustars unlock no longer sends a neg signal, I moved to the disarm wire, so before I manage to short that out and move to AUX1 & Aux2 on the compustar I'd like some feedback.....
I've heard that some of the lexus', you need to remove the door panel and access the lock mod inside the door??? I found a thick red/wire going out to the door in the drivers kick which takes a pos to switch and rests at GND so I'd like to use a relay to change my neg from the compustar to the positive it needs. But i'm havin some issuses remembering relay wiring the relay seems to bleed positive through the relay to the compustars unlock wire. I'd use a diode except for the fact that I need to feed neg to the relay and block 12v to the compustar, I guess I only get one or the other, so there must be a different why to wire the relay so I don't get 12v bleed through shorting out my compustar neg doorlocks, disarm wire, AUX's
http://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagram...0interface.pdf
...........it states that I split the Blue/black wire to a relay contacts between 30 & 87a then 86 goes to BOTH my lock output from the compustar lock wire and to the cars lock which it says is green/red. 85 goes to 12v fused. 87 not used. Now heres where the trouble starts...green/black (cars unlock wire)diode isolated and attached to the door electronic control unit side of the blue/black wire which is (87a) is the two they claim needs a neg pulse from my compustar......It would lock all doors except the drivers and then 20 secs later the drivers would lock. But nothing for unlock as the car must be shorting out the compustar unlock wire???
When this didn't work I looked for other wires to unlock using a computer safe test light. When I checked with a friends Astrochart program it stated those same wires but also in the drivers kick that there were also Blue/red to lock and Blue/black to unlock. My compustars unlock no longer sends a neg signal, I moved to the disarm wire, so before I manage to short that out and move to AUX1 & Aux2 on the compustar I'd like some feedback.....
I've heard that some of the lexus', you need to remove the door panel and access the lock mod inside the door??? I found a thick red/wire going out to the door in the drivers kick which takes a pos to switch and rests at GND so I'd like to use a relay to change my neg from the compustar to the positive it needs. But i'm havin some issuses remembering relay wiring the relay seems to bleed positive through the relay to the compustars unlock wire. I'd use a diode except for the fact that I need to feed neg to the relay and block 12v to the compustar, I guess I only get one or the other, so there must be a different why to wire the relay so I don't get 12v bleed through shorting out my compustar neg doorlocks, disarm wire, AUX's
03-23-2006, 11:47 PM
#2
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 43
Lexus 2001 IS300 door lock walk-through
Sorry for the long post but hopefully it will be useful to someone else thats ripping their hair out
You do have to go into the drivers door on this car, nice an easy to get the door off except for the trim ring around the door handle was quite a bit tighter than most cars. Remove one screw (Phillips +) behind the door handle's little plastic flap which hides the screw and then push the trim piece slightly towards the back of the car while using a flathead or door popper tool to gently lift up at the top of the hinge area and then down at the bottom hinge area to realease the two clips holding on for dear life!
The tweeter cover comes off pretty easy.There is one metal clip at the edge next to the window and two plastic legs holding the bottom out to make it sit even on the window sill. Make sure you pull it directly outwards using leverage from the window side or you'll break the little legs off.
One more screw inside the pocket that you grab to close the door (Phillips +) then using a flathead supported by some cloth to prevent scratchin gently lift the window/doorlock/mirror button panel out starting at the front by the mirror buttons, there's a metal clip that pulls straight up. Don't lift the back first. Remove the two plugs just long enough to remove the door then reattach to find & test your wires.
Feel along the bottom before you start, 3/4 the way back you'll feel a small gap to get started. Use your wide flathead/panel popper/mini crowbar to lift the bottom of your door off gentley as there are several plastic plugs/ buttons (3 to 5) to remove all the way along the bottom and two sides up (2 or 3 plugs each).
Lift the door off raising the left side first to get around the tweeter and don't forget those plugs sticken out the back of your door panel as not to punch through the pioneer/panasonic type OEM speakers that are glued to the end of a plastic tube which is riveted on the door much like VW did for a while.
Remove the two wire plug at the bottom left of the door for the light. Find a safe place for the panel for the next 1/2 hour.
You need about 4 wires of around 16 gauge or so (cause you never want to do this ever again). Six to seven feet should be good to start if you use your cordless drill to wind your wire together.
The grommets on this car aren't too bad, no plugs at both ends, Nothing like the Subaru WRX or Nissan 350ZX door grommets! A good sharp knife and a coat hanger OR one of those two foot plastic flexable fish's from Metra should do the trick nice. Fish the wires through to the inside of the car which is tricky because the speaker doesn't just unscrew, its rivited in. Nothing a drill wouldn't fix but make sure your hand is steady or your the proud new owner of holy OEM speaker and the title of Tool of the day around the shop.
However at the back of the door panel under the plastic there is an unscrewable (Phillips + OR 10mm) access panel at the bottom back of the door. Just make sure you have the window rolled up (yes, plug it in again!)because you'll need every inch of space in that door. Find a friend with really long arms! Now you're ready for the fun part!
Wiring - Write down your new colour selections, wire up the inside of the door by cutting the Blue/black wire in half and then add your new wires to each new half remembering which is door lock motor side. Tap into the other two wires. Either add your diodes inside the car or at the door, servicing is usually easier in the car but this door wasn't to long coming off either.
http://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagram...0interface.pdf
Be sure to add an extra relay to power your low current ground from your alarms unlock wire into a high current ground. The lock side does not need a high current ground.
It seems like none of these companies had this info 100% correct but Directechs was the closest in giving the correct location of these wires. This info has been provided by www.bulldogsecurity.com, www.directechs.com, www.astroflex.com and my good friends down at Sound FX in Toronto, Ontario for making my headache go away.
You do have to go into the drivers door on this car, nice an easy to get the door off except for the trim ring around the door handle was quite a bit tighter than most cars. Remove one screw (Phillips +) behind the door handle's little plastic flap which hides the screw and then push the trim piece slightly towards the back of the car while using a flathead or door popper tool to gently lift up at the top of the hinge area and then down at the bottom hinge area to realease the two clips holding on for dear life!
The tweeter cover comes off pretty easy.There is one metal clip at the edge next to the window and two plastic legs holding the bottom out to make it sit even on the window sill. Make sure you pull it directly outwards using leverage from the window side or you'll break the little legs off.
One more screw inside the pocket that you grab to close the door (Phillips +) then using a flathead supported by some cloth to prevent scratchin gently lift the window/doorlock/mirror button panel out starting at the front by the mirror buttons, there's a metal clip that pulls straight up. Don't lift the back first. Remove the two plugs just long enough to remove the door then reattach to find & test your wires.
Feel along the bottom before you start, 3/4 the way back you'll feel a small gap to get started. Use your wide flathead/panel popper/mini crowbar to lift the bottom of your door off gentley as there are several plastic plugs/ buttons (3 to 5) to remove all the way along the bottom and two sides up (2 or 3 plugs each).
Lift the door off raising the left side first to get around the tweeter and don't forget those plugs sticken out the back of your door panel as not to punch through the pioneer/panasonic type OEM speakers that are glued to the end of a plastic tube which is riveted on the door much like VW did for a while.
Remove the two wire plug at the bottom left of the door for the light. Find a safe place for the panel for the next 1/2 hour.
You need about 4 wires of around 16 gauge or so (cause you never want to do this ever again). Six to seven feet should be good to start if you use your cordless drill to wind your wire together.
The grommets on this car aren't too bad, no plugs at both ends, Nothing like the Subaru WRX or Nissan 350ZX door grommets! A good sharp knife and a coat hanger OR one of those two foot plastic flexable fish's from Metra should do the trick nice. Fish the wires through to the inside of the car which is tricky because the speaker doesn't just unscrew, its rivited in. Nothing a drill wouldn't fix but make sure your hand is steady or your the proud new owner of holy OEM speaker and the title of Tool of the day around the shop.
However at the back of the door panel under the plastic there is an unscrewable (Phillips + OR 10mm) access panel at the bottom back of the door. Just make sure you have the window rolled up (yes, plug it in again!)because you'll need every inch of space in that door. Find a friend with really long arms! Now you're ready for the fun part!
Wiring - Write down your new colour selections, wire up the inside of the door by cutting the Blue/black wire in half and then add your new wires to each new half remembering which is door lock motor side. Tap into the other two wires. Either add your diodes inside the car or at the door, servicing is usually easier in the car but this door wasn't to long coming off either.
http://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagram...0interface.pdf
Be sure to add an extra relay to power your low current ground from your alarms unlock wire into a high current ground. The lock side does not need a high current ground.
It seems like none of these companies had this info 100% correct but Directechs was the closest in giving the correct location of these wires. This info has been provided by www.bulldogsecurity.com, www.directechs.com, www.astroflex.com and my good friends down at Sound FX in Toronto, Ontario for making my headache go away.
Last edited by JKR; 03-23-2006 at 11:57 PM. Reason: mis-spelling
