Have to be careful with regulated amplifiers. In order to output the same power with sagging input voltage, the amp has to draw more current. This draws the battery down mor, which results in less voltage, which results in more current demand, and so on..

 

Thanks for the warning.

 

I would say it is a good idea to match the battery to your needs are you going to be doing SPL burps at very high levels or long periods of high power. A 'red top' or starting battery is sometimes a better solution, other times a 'yellow top' or AGU and sometimes 'blue top' or gel battery

 

no beatin no burps. Just trying to play some rock and techno at about 3/4 volume with the doors open so I have music while ridding my bike. I always turn the interior lights off and I have my door chime dissabled but I've never tryed to run it past 30 minutes as I don't want to get stranded.

 

But one should also note that when you know you will completely drain a red top, it's not a good idea to use it.

Max amp hour rating for any Red Top is 50AH, which means you can’t do 2.5 hours at any current draw greater than about 25 amps average (20 + what ever margin they have designed in to their rating).

My experience with Red Tops has been that after about 10 complete kills of the battery it's dead for life. As in you need go buy another one.

When I had SVR's I could kill them weekly, like 50 times a year, and they still lasted for years. In fact I still use an 8 year old SVR28 battery on my test bench after it spent 5 years in my car. I have a few others in like condition just laying around.

I can't say that for ANY RED TOP OPTIMA I've owned.

IMO if you know you want engine off performance use a deep cycle or design in a system that cuts power when a red top reaches something like 11 volts.

Red tops are good automotive batteries for starting vehicles (CCA).