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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 11:49 AM
  #1  
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Capacitor Question

At what point should I consider installing a capacitor. Back in the days before computer engine management systems, you just installed a larger capacity alternator & battery(s). Today, you can't vary voltage much without experiencing problems. The lights just used to pulse to the music before you realized you were overwhelming the power system.
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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Nothing has changed, bigger alternator is still the way to go when you need lots of power, 12v - 14.4v the cars computer will have no problems.
Old Dec 21, 2009 | 11:05 PM
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Cap info

I think the 'rule of thumb' is still 1F for up to 1kw systems, but not sure the average 'bargain' 1F caps
IS really all it is rated to be these days. I have run a Aluma Pro 5F for the past few years and never had
any issues. I think this is more than enough boost for any system, and mine is overkill
for a 1.5kw system, but I like knowing the juice is always there.

Cheers!

Rick

Last edited by neomsport; Dec 21, 2009 at 11:06 PM. Reason: typo
Old Dec 23, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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Thanks for the info. My concern was more or less about the sub amp draw. It's in the area of about 375 to 400 watts. The front speakers are powered by a 65 watt harmon kardon amp with it's own big capacitors. [the thing weighs a ton and has big heat sinks] The rear speakers are powered by a JBL GTO752 75 watt amp. The tweeters & amp draw are insignificant. I still haven't made up my mind regarding the sub amp. I'm leaning towards a JL or Boston Acoustics, I sure am kicking myself for not buying more of the old harmon kardon stuff 'cause man, this stuff is solid!! Once again, thanks!
Old Dec 23, 2009 | 10:03 AM
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If caps are your thing, the 1F per 1K seems to work well.
Old Dec 31, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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Old School amps are the real-deal stuff. And the HK stuff is no exception, but they will benefit from having outboard
cap, esp for bass transients. With modest power, most any "1F" cap should do the job.

Cheers!

Rick
Old Dec 31, 2009 | 11:08 AM
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caps are junk.
Old Dec 31, 2009 | 11:11 AM
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I used to have a cap. I thought it was good at first and kept telling myself that it was helping even though my lights still would dim. Then one day my battery died and I changed to a Toyota battery. The lights stopped dimming. Then I took out the cap in the middle of a show (not sure if thats against db drag rules lol) and I got louder. Was only .5 db gain, and I don't know the science behind why it happened, but it did, and I haven't used my cap since. After seeing a video on youtube recently I have now decided to remove the voltage meter displaying portion of my cap and turn it into a voltage meter. Why? Because it looked cool in the video. That really was all I used it for when it was installed, to see how low my voltage dropped.
Old Dec 31, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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Certainly all caps are NOT created equal (as with many categories of products). Many of the average "1F"
caps are crap, but this is why having a 'hybrid' type that is rated at 5F or more, WILL typically make
a significant difference, esp during transients and peak output, particularly on unregulated amp designs
(most), and virtually all Class D amps. Energy storage is not a myth, it is physics, which are a reality,
regardless if you choose to believe in science or not.

Cheers!

Rick

Last edited by neomsport; Dec 31, 2009 at 01:16 PM. Reason: typo
Old Dec 31, 2009 | 01:35 PM
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I read somwhere that a 9 Volt battery can keep a bulb lit longer than a 1F cap.

I've also seen Criss Angel defy gravity and walk up the wall of a building. That was magic, or anti physics as I like to call it.



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