Car Audio Rookie
01-03-2007, 09:55 PM
#12
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 162
Ok I do have a Princess auto, so I will pick up that wiring kit. Also, I believe my headunit has a sub-out on it. Could I not use that instead of the rear RCAs for my sub? Also, this program I am using (BassBox 6 Pro) is giving me different results for my subbox than what Sony would suggest for the driver. Fishy. Thanks guys, Made my life a LOT easier.
01-04-2007, 09:02 PM
#13
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 275
Originally Posted by Creamedweasel
Ok I do have a Princess auto, so I will pick up that wiring kit. Also, I believe my headunit has a sub-out on it. Could I not use that instead of the rear RCAs for my sub? Also, this program I am using (BassBox 6 Pro) is giving me different results for my subbox than what Sony would suggest for the driver. Fishy. Thanks guys, Made my life a LOT easier.
And just use the specs sony gives. They make the subs, so I'm assuming their specs would be correct.
01-05-2007, 10:10 PM
#15
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 162
Ok so I sorta graphed out what my schematics should be. Here they are:
If anyone could point out any flaws or anything I am missing that I will need, please gladly do so. I am extremely new to this kind of stuff. Also if anyone knows some good tips for sound proofing a car, mainly the trunk (will caulking work around the rim of the trunk to keep it from vibrating?), thanks again!
*edit* forgot to ask, is attaching an amp to a sub box harmful in any way? (outside the box) lol
If anyone could point out any flaws or anything I am missing that I will need, please gladly do so. I am extremely new to this kind of stuff. Also if anyone knows some good tips for sound proofing a car, mainly the trunk (will caulking work around the rim of the trunk to keep it from vibrating?), thanks again!
*edit* forgot to ask, is attaching an amp to a sub box harmful in any way? (outside the box) lol
01-06-2007, 11:36 AM
#16
You're drawing has some flaws 
In the installation section, look up a thread called 'Wiring Diagram', posts 6 & 7. Maybe basic wiring diagrams should be stickied?
Your alternator feeds the battery. The 4 ga. from the battery goes to the main fuse, as close as possible to the battery, then the 4 ga. runs through the firewall, though the car to the trunk or wherever your amps are. It goes to a fused distribution block, with one fuse for each amp. From that fuse block, you can use 8 ga. to the amps, but better if you can fit 4 ga. on the terminals.
Head unit gets power from the existing harness in your car; use an adaptor if you don't want to hurt the old wires.
Outputs from the hu are RCA's (not 4 ga.) to each amp. You'll also need a remote turn on wire, usually included in a kit.
Grounds are very important. Add another 4 ga. from battery negative to chassis, as well as the original. If you have a ground distribution block in your kit, use it to connect the 2 amps, and ground it with 4 ga. Scrape, file or sand to find clean metal to attach grounds.
In the installation section, look up a thread called 'Wiring Diagram', posts 6 & 7. Maybe basic wiring diagrams should be stickied?
Your alternator feeds the battery. The 4 ga. from the battery goes to the main fuse, as close as possible to the battery, then the 4 ga. runs through the firewall, though the car to the trunk or wherever your amps are. It goes to a fused distribution block, with one fuse for each amp. From that fuse block, you can use 8 ga. to the amps, but better if you can fit 4 ga. on the terminals.
Head unit gets power from the existing harness in your car; use an adaptor if you don't want to hurt the old wires.
Outputs from the hu are RCA's (not 4 ga.) to each amp. You'll also need a remote turn on wire, usually included in a kit.
Grounds are very important. Add another 4 ga. from battery negative to chassis, as well as the original. If you have a ground distribution block in your kit, use it to connect the 2 amps, and ground it with 4 ga. Scrape, file or sand to find clean metal to attach grounds.
01-06-2007, 09:32 PM
#17
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 275
Originally Posted by Tom.F.1
You're drawing has some flaws
In the installation section, look up a thread called 'Wiring Diagram', posts 6 & 7. Maybe basic wiring diagrams should be stickied?
Your alternator feeds the battery. The 4 ga. from the battery goes to the main fuse, as close as possible to the battery, then the 4 ga. runs through the firewall, though the car to the trunk or wherever your amps are. It goes to a fused distribution block, with one fuse for each amp. From that fuse block, you can use 8 ga. to the amps, but better if you can fit 4 ga. on the terminals.
Head unit gets power from the existing harness in your car; use an adaptor if you don't want to hurt the old wires.
Outputs from the hu are RCA's (not 4 ga.) to each amp. You'll also need a remote turn on wire, usually included in a kit.
Grounds are very important. Add another 4 ga. from battery negative to chassis, as well as the original. If you have a ground distribution block in your kit, use it to connect the 2 amps, and ground it with 4 ga. Scrape, file or sand to find clean metal to attach grounds.
In the installation section, look up a thread called 'Wiring Diagram', posts 6 & 7. Maybe basic wiring diagrams should be stickied?
Your alternator feeds the battery. The 4 ga. from the battery goes to the main fuse, as close as possible to the battery, then the 4 ga. runs through the firewall, though the car to the trunk or wherever your amps are. It goes to a fused distribution block, with one fuse for each amp. From that fuse block, you can use 8 ga. to the amps, but better if you can fit 4 ga. on the terminals.
Head unit gets power from the existing harness in your car; use an adaptor if you don't want to hurt the old wires.
Outputs from the hu are RCA's (not 4 ga.) to each amp. You'll also need a remote turn on wire, usually included in a kit.
Grounds are very important. Add another 4 ga. from battery negative to chassis, as well as the original. If you have a ground distribution block in your kit, use it to connect the 2 amps, and ground it with 4 ga. Scrape, file or sand to find clean metal to attach grounds.
He's not saying ground the amps to the battery, but to put a 4gauge wire to the Chassis, the shorter the wire, the better. Usually under 3 feet.
01-09-2007, 09:51 PM
#20
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 162
Ok guys I need some more help, for anyone that had a 1997 cav, can I somehow mount 6.5" in the doors or maybe kickers? I have absolutely no idea on how to do that so any help would be great, also maybe how to remove the door panels, hehe. As for the big 3, what all should I be grounding? Also are there any extremely secure ways to hold onto a sub box and amps versus thieves? I was thinking of building a cage, hehe.
Things acquied:
Sony GT500 headunit
Polk 2x 12" sub box
0 Gauge wiring kit
Mounting kit
Headunit wire kit
Things needed:
Really nice Components (might have seller)
4ch Amp
Mono Amp (might have seller)
Instructions on how to fix up my car to hold all this, nicely.
Bigger budget, d'oh!
Any wiring techniques or just little lessons that you guys have learned over the years would help me tons.
Things acquied:
Sony GT500 headunit
Polk 2x 12" sub box
0 Gauge wiring kit
Mounting kit
Headunit wire kit
Things needed:
Really nice Components (might have seller)
4ch Amp
Mono Amp (might have seller)
Instructions on how to fix up my car to hold all this, nicely.
Bigger budget, d'oh!
Any wiring techniques or just little lessons that you guys have learned over the years would help me tons.
