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DUAL KICKER CUSTOM BOX :( (AMP GOES OFF after 1 mont use)

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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:18 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by lpchouinard
Do you have 2v at the + and - of the amp power terminals when it happen???
yup when the amp shut off (the problem) and i measure the voltage at the Terminal of the amp (negaive positive)
i get a 2 volt read.....
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 01:02 AM
  #12  
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Man check the wiring b4 your car burn to the ground...

How do you manage to get the power back? are you directly connected to the car battery terminals?
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 01:06 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by lpchouinard
Man check the wiring b4 your car burn to the ground...

How do you manage to get the power back? are you directly connected to the car battery terminals?

4 gauge battery terminal, to 150ANL FUSE, 4 gauges goes true firewall down the carpet , to the back seat where it goes to the amp directly.
its get 14.38 at the fuse but at the end. the amp get 14.00
but when the amp DIES the voltage goes to 2.00 volts. i just shut off the put it in standby and mode it back to CD player and the amp turn back on.
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 01:09 AM
  #14  
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question 2.
My local part store did a atl, battery test
all went well, until he told me to turn on the lights and play the system
the device detected Multiple ripples! 1 of the worker said, Battery mite be going, and other guy say have a wire bearly touching ground. So! what wire could of burst?
I am soon to do a full big 3, order a H.O alternator. and 0 gauge wiring for everything.


Think i should find this aka BUSTED cable b4 i upgrade to a H.O alt ?
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 01:30 AM
  #15  
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How does the power wire run through the firewall?
Also check your fuse, just because it looks good doesnt mean it is.

I've seen ANL fuses look perfect, and not work.

You could have an internal issue with the amp as well.

Check over ALL your connections, if they're ALL ok, swap the amp out for a know working one to find the culprit.
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 01:36 AM
  #16  
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So the entire voltage of the vehicle drops to 2 volts or only at the amplifier?
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 10:44 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by MR2NR
So the entire voltage of the vehicle drops to 2 volts or only at the amplifier?
only at the amp when i put it at the fuse it at 14.38
when i put it at the amp terminals it give m e a 2.0 reading.
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 11:11 AM
  #18  
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If you have normal voltage before the amp, it is not a vehicle related problem. You either have a bad fuse / holder or you have toasted your amp. My bet is a little of both and far more likely to be the amplifier.
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 11:32 AM
  #19  
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SO i have a replacement
Memphis_16-MC1500D 1500rms at 2ohms but the guy state it does 1800rms at 2 ohms
my subs arae combine at 1200rms(600rms each in parellel)
is this am over kill for my system?
i will be doing a full 0 gauge upgrade and a 240 alt by friday
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:08 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by MR2NR
If you have normal voltage before the amp, it is not a vehicle related problem. You either have a bad fuse / holder or you have toasted your amp. My bet is a little of both and far more likely to be the amplifier.
The amp's fine. The 2v reading is taken from the amp terminals, so the internals of the amp is fine. Unless someone can explain to me how that amp can be so resistive, the load is lowering the voltage to 2v!!! and that without blowing the fuse or killing the battery...

Like i said my guess is a bad connection between the battery and the amp terminals.



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