avidedtr

iTrader: (11)

U mean an isolator?

Or a relay on his remote to his amp

no_pulse

What Kinetik battery should I have bought instead of the 800? I'm not sure what the relay would look like. From what I can tell by the wiring, the power wires that go from the amps to the Kinetik battery, go all the way to the front of my vehicle to a fuse and then connected to my car battery terminal. Sorry, I'm a noob when it comes to car audio. Oh, and its only the Kinetik battery that is draining, not my car battery.

I just hope my amp(s) are not blown. I rarely used my system since my truck was taking off the road for a while. Although my system is 10yrs old.

What are the tell tale signs of a amp that is damaged/blown?

I tried to use my system again last night, and the base will work at high volume for about 10min and then cuts out. When I lowered the volume to where the system doesn't cut out, I started to hear some really weird noise/interference through the speakers. So I just shut the whole audio system off.

I booked an appointment with EHR. Hopefully its a simple issue and not a blown amp.

JohnVroom

... could your fuse under the hood have an issue? Are ALL the power connections tight from the battery to the amps to the ground point (socket wrench tight not finger tight)?

it does not sound like anything is damaged (yet) but if you system voltage is low it could lead to damage. no relay (isolator) appears to be in the system you described

as for the 800 it is just a very small battery and probably the only one that will fit in the cut out in the back of your car, it should be a significant asset to the system... but it only weighs 26 # so it just doesn't have that much lead and electrolyte in it (the dead give away is the ONLY power listing on their web site is amp hours (ah) and even then it is only 26)

BTW it is perfectly OK to be a noob, it is a curable condition!

JohnVroom

!! how do you know that?? do you have test equipment you know how to use?

1- Smoke, fire
2- amp going into protect mode all the time


what you are describing really sounds like either low voltage or over heating (amp and or speaker)... your amps are tucked away in a pretty small area that may not have a lot of air getting to them, so as they heat up while you play loud they cut off or ramp back their output (overheating could also damage the amps given enough heat)

no_pulse

I know my regular battery under my hood isn't draining because I bought a set of battery terminals that display the voltage and its always 12.5 when the truck isn't running and 14.5 when its running. Also, I've checked it with a multimeter too.

I think your right about it possibly being low voltage. I watched my amps when the sound cuts out and the low power light on both amps blinks. When my Kinetik 800 was fully charged, my base would pound, but since its not getting charged, I have maybe 10min of base before the audio starts cutting in and out. What really sucks is that if I don't hooked up the Kinetik battery, there is no audio at all. I don't know how EHR wired my system, but it needs a cap or battery where the amps are to hear anything. Without either, there's no sound.

It can't be an issue of over heating because I have a SUV and there is a lot of space for air to flow where they are located.

JohnVroom

check out the wiring and make sue everything is correct this kind of reeks of installation issues

it is time to use a volt meter and lift lead wires, if this is beyond you abilities you probably have a friend with a digital multimeter that could help you

no_pulse

Bingo! When I took it to EHR, all that was wrong was the ground to the amps was I guess loose and a few other wires that needed to be tightened. My Kinetik now charges fine. Glad to see that I didn't need a new amp.

RomanticMoments

I hope you aren't considering using the same installer, cuz that $#!t's elementary. If you did the swap, then I can completely understand, and you've now learned a valuable lesson