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Need help Please "Tunning"Kind of.

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Old 04-01-2009, 05:07 PM
  #11  
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Thank you guys for all these suggestions Let me just state again these subs hit but just not as hard as i think they should. The box i made for the subs is 16.5 x 38.5x9.5 (inside dimensions of box) which
=6034.875 divided by
(12x12x12 1 cubic foot= 1728)
=3.49 cubic feet
Divided by 2 (2 subs)=1.74
-0.135 (volume of wooffer)
=1.61cuft of air per wooffer

Acoording to specs each sub need 1.5-1.75 cuft
so I'm in the specs The only two things i don't understand is the previous owner of these woffers had them in a 7 cuft box
why????? specs say min 1.5-1.75 max in a sealed enclosure.
Is it the baffle material that i reused from his box to mine???
didn't thing that was a bad thing remeber reading that those bafflle insulation are suppose to elimate or reduce standing sound waves in a box the insulation is only 1 inch thick.
As to N130gv2 comment why would i wanna wire the subs in series This system came wired this way from KROMER radio original installers in the previous owners car. I can't see that being any better right now each channel on the amp has a 2.7 ohm load very stable going to a 5 -5.4ohm (on the meter) (in theroy it should be 4ohm but theroy and reality are never the same) so how can it get louder if the load is going to be alot less.???
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:51 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by last-of-the-5.0
Thank you guys for all these suggestions Let me just state again these subs hit but just not as hard as i think they should. The box i made for the subs is 16.5 x 38.5x9.5 (inside dimensions of box) which
=6034.875 divided by
(12x12x12 1 cubic foot= 1728)
=3.49 cubic feet
Divided by 2 (2 subs)=1.74
-0.135 (volume of wooffer)
=1.61cuft of air per wooffer

Acoording to specs each sub need 1.5-1.75 cuft
so I'm in the specs The only two things i don't understand is the previous owner of these woffers had them in a 7 cuft box
why????? specs say min 1.5-1.75 max in a sealed enclosure.
Is it the baffle material that i reused from his box to mine???
didn't thing that was a bad thing remeber reading that those bafflle insulation are suppose to elimate or reduce standing sound waves in a box the insulation is only 1 inch thick.
As to N130gv2 comment why would i wanna wire the subs in series This system came wired this way from KROMER radio original installers in the previous owners car. I can't see that being any better right now each channel on the amp has a 2.7 ohm load very stable going to a 5 -5.4ohm (on the meter) (in theroy it should be 4ohm but theroy and reality are never the same) so how can it get louder if the load is going to be alot less.???
It will be louder because the amp puts out way more power running bridged instead of in stereo. You did say its wired in stereo right. One sub to each channel??? The other way is rewire the subs to 8 ohms, them hook them up in parallel. That will give you close to the same load I said earlier and still BRIDGE THE AMP.
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:01 PM
  #13  
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the ampputs out the same power if two chanells are wired at 2 0hm a piece the amp puts out 400 rms a channel
if the amp is wired in 4 ohm bridged teh amp puts out 800 rms x 1 channel.
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Old 04-02-2009, 02:02 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by last-of-the-5.0
the ampputs out the same power if two chanells are wired at 2 0hm a piece the amp puts out 400 rms a channel
if the amp is wired in 4 ohm bridged teh amp puts out 800 rms x 1 channel.

Thats true but I've always found wiring mono to appear louder. Subs move in sync better. Wire it however you'd like man. I was just trying to help.
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Old 04-02-2009, 05:24 PM
  #15  
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Well i did end up wiring it in mono and series the subs as well Found that it made the speakers start to fart like it was overpowering them.

Still can't beleive that no one on this site knows how to or should i say cares to offer advice on how to "tune" a system.
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Old 04-02-2009, 10:09 PM
  #16  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by last-of-the-5.0
Well i did end up wiring it in mono and series the subs as well Found that it made the speakers start to fart like it was overpowering them.

Still can't beleive that no one on this site knows how to or should i say cares to offer advice on how to "tune" a system.
Maybe someone who does didn't see this thread until today.......

The speakers are farting because the settings on the system are wrong for those speakers right now.....drop the gain on the line driver back to '0' as well as the gain on the amp.......and please, set the bass boost **** to zero.

Even though the electrical load is identical, wiring your coils in series and the drivers in parallel is the preferred way to hook up drivers. Even if they are in separate chambers they will sound better since they are getting an identical signal from the amp.

There are several steps to get this right.....if you can get to the show in Brampton this Saturday I would be happy to help you out with this.....I should be there around 12:30PM or so.....I also drive an E150 so you should recognize the vehicle.....

If not PM me.....we'll git'er done.

HTH
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