SheHateMe

Hi guys, another newbie question. I know a few things about car audio, but I am no where close to calling my self knowledgeable about it. The other day I was pounding the subs a little harder than usual, and I blew the fuses in the amp, replaced them, everything sound fine. Now I thought my subs were playing quite loud, but I was talking to a budy last night, and he has 2 small 12 inch subs, in a ported bass worx box, and the whole cabin in his civic just vibrates, the bass is a lot louder, it sadly dwarfs mine. He said they didn't push anymore than 300RMS. I have 2 15" Kicker CVR's 500 RMS a piece, in a sealed box. A Kenwood 915-D 1000RMS amp, with a true 2 guage power wire running to it, Pioneer 4800 deck, Kenwood 6x9's 120RMS, and infiniti 4' door speakers 35 RMS (Upgrading soon). So basically, I want the full potential out of it, but I have a feeling I'm missing a few things. The treble and mid sound quite well, but there just isn't enough bass anymore...

Thought I'd take a second to tell you sorry for the long read, but I want to make sure it's clear. I currently have no cap in the setup. I do have a 1.5 farad cap available, but I was told by several people I wouldn't really need it. I have a new, decent battery, and a very well grounded ground wire. About half a foot away from the battery, maybe a little more, there is a fuse, it came in the orion install kit. The car I have now is a 92 honda accord EXR, with the stock alternator and wiring all around. Now I was curious to know, if anyone knows how much it would generally cost, to upgrade the alternator wires, and the battery ground wires, beause I think thats half my problem. The next is, I think I need the cap, especally for this much power, so if possible, can you give me detailed directions on how to install it into my system. Also, would I possibly have to upgrade the alternator, in order to help keep the cap charged? Or would upgrading the wires be enough. Would I also need to port the box, in order to make them kick and seem a lot louder? Any help is appreicated, thank you.

Tom.F.1

iTrader: (1)

You didn't say what amps you have for your front speakers?

I have CVR15's, with only 380 wrms on each. but then i have 4 other amps for the 4 other speakers.

I wouldn't expect them to be loud. If you want loud, go for 15L7's with 1000wrms on each. That would be a starter SPL system.

Generally, ported boxes are for loud. Narrowing the freq going to the subs can give the illusion of loud.

theaudiodon

buddy has a hatchback nuff said
his box is also tuned to more of an spl based output with a rather large port surface area right.
if your in a pissin match with him then ya gotts take those factors into consideration and design a new box ad or make the changes you can afford to help you pwer wire and ground upgrades tuning enclosure sound deadning and car sounddeadning better enclosure lots of options

Tony Dehnke

Few things here:
-Hatchback - plays loud
- Ported Box - more effecient so will play louder
- Just cause you have bigger subs doesn't mean they play lounder
- Bigger subs can have heavier moving parts that need more power to get them going and playing loud - IE thick cones vs thin cones - 3 inch voice coils, vs 1 inch voice coils etc
- you didn't actually say what kind of subs and amp your buddy has... so harder to get into that side of it..

- As far as your electrical is concerned do an upgrade to 2gauge or 4 guage (as they are shorter runs anyways) from your neg post on battery to engine/alternator, and from neg post to a good chassis location. Use a conductive grease under the hood to minimize corrosion and help keep the contact point clean etc.. you can get that at good auto parts places and some welding type places I imagine too...

I personally like caps, so grab that, they are easy to put in - do a search on here or google for instructions... or get a good car audio dealer to do it for you, thats why they are there