I LOVE XPlOD

hi all just bought a new amp plad214 made by pyle driver just wondering if this is any good i got it for 24.00 so im not complaning here are some specs






* 2 x 250W rms at 4 ohms
* 2 x 800W max at 4 ohms
* 1 x 900W max at 4 ohms bridged
* 2 x 400W rms at 2 ohms
* Remote bass level control
* Electronic crossover network
* Tri-mode capable
* Gold-plated RCA inputs
* High/low pass filter controls
* 8 5/8" W x 2 3/4" H x 9 13/16" D

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Looks similar to this one, except this model is 212.

PLAD212 - PyleŽ 800 Watt Car Amplifiers

I have my doubts about the output....No CEA-2006 compliant rating that I can see, so that means they could put it outside in a thunderstorm and let it get hit by lightning to achieve that output although it does have one green fuse which is usually 30 amp.

EDIT: Heres the 214..but it looks like it only has ONE 25 amp fuse?

PLAD214 - PyleŽ 1600 Watt Car Amplifiers

Denonite

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately, Pyle is not what it used to be, a well regarded car audio company in the late 80's. There were actually very high end systems that used their equipment back then. Now, they're regarded in the same light as Pyramid. A 500watt rms amp for $24.00! need I say more...

godzilla1978

if it's fused at 25 amps at 100% efficiency it would make 360watts(14.4v*25amps=360watts) If its got a 30amp fuse it would make 432watts @ 100% efficiency. It is not possible for it to make 900 watts rms, even if lighting hit it! In reality it's probably closer to 180 total rms power.

jalat

iTrader: (6)

like its been said above, it doesn't do rated power.

I LOVE XPlOD

ya but im nor complaing o and it pounds my sub harder the my rf mono block belive it or not lol

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Darn good point there. Never even thought of that. So considering it's an A/B I think, you gave it 50% efficiency to come up with the 180 figure.

godzilla1978

Yeah that's generally where most AB amp are as far as efficiency goes. D class amps generally are between 75-85%. You always get a quite accurate rating by using ohms law and the information on the amp it self and by information I mean the fuse. An amp CANNOT make 1 watt more than what current the fuse will allow it to draw. For example if we had a 900 rms watt amplifier, and we assume that the cars voltage is 14.0(in reality it's closer to 13.8) and 100% efficiency that amp would have to be fused at 64.2amps. The lower the voltage input more current is needed. Less efficiency even more current is needed. See where I'm going with this? So if you see an amp with a 25 amp fuse there is now way it can make 900 rms, 900 peak for that matter. There's no way, period. By the way I'm glad it pounds harder than it used to that's what matters anyways, jsut becareful when reading the ratings on the box/internet. Those numbers can be changed, physics is constant.