danieldl

Ok, just for those wondering what finally happened.

I've received the new S12L7 with the warranty, still 2+2 ohms with 4 ohms load. New knukonceptz gauge 4 (awg 2.83) wire kit installed with 120A mini-ANL fuse and 1' AWG 8 wires from the capacitor to the amp.

Instead of the low 9v I was getting when running AWG 8 from the battery to the cap, I don't get anything below 13.4v with the new wires. The amp isn't as warm as it was; I've set the gain to 2/3 instead of 7/8 and it's playing almost as loud anyway. The amp isn't as warm as before (the wires must help). The sub isn't as warm neither and no smells at all.

So, probably that the wires had a really big thing to do with all my issues; I probably got a bad batch with my last S12L7 too.

StelsoN

Before you go buying a new amp a few things to check and do.
I own a Pdx-1000 and 4 type r subs, they are installed in my dodge magnum.
When i first installed my amp would go in to protect mode.
Stupid me had my low line input set to .1 to 2v on the amp. Now very good since my line driver is pushing up to 8v.
Also i had to change and add new grounds for the battery and clean the snot out of the posts.
i switch out the old fuses on the amp that were 25amps for some reason to 30 amp fuses.
Another factor for a sub blowing is box tuning, mass anout of clipping and destroy a sub. and i have totaled 2 type r in my past.
As for a disfuntional sub a thing to check with the type r's is the center guide pole. and rubbing the the voice ciol will cause the woofer to stick . to check simple push the center of the cone and listen for any sign of scraping. hope this helps a bit