The bandpass doesnt seem to have much effect on power handling. What ever the sub can take in a sealed box will carry over to the bandpass.

As far as wattage, the lower the impedance, the less ability the amp has to control the driver. When you reduce from 4ohm load to 2ohm load, the damping factor is cut in 1/2 also. So, if the 10" is a 4ohm driver and the amp is seeing 4ohms (not bridged) I wouldn't be afraid to throw a little more wattage at it.

I can appreciate you would like to have a very flat response. I personally enjoy the low-end home theater feel. I don't think a bandpass enclosure is right for you. As the name implies, it really is a 1 note design. As flat as the blue line is, build it. Whats the worst that could happen.

I just don't have any experience with other software progs, so I can't comment on what winISD will do. I will still play around with some boxes on my prog Saturday and foward the results. I will do as much as I can to help.

 

So I did a little playing around and, in the end, a 1.5cuft vented box outperformed any reasonable bandpass at anything above 27hz. Sometimes things should just be simple.

 

IMO, the green line is going to sound like ****, and the blue is going to have too much low end. In a car environment, you want a downward slope in the free-air response starting at 40hz or so. This will counter-act the transfer function of the car itself. You could mess with the volumes and get a very nice sound from a bandpass box so long as you account for this. A home theatre subwoofer (with a nice flat response all the way down to 25Hz) is going to sound like a rumble machine and will have no kick to it all unsell you equalize the hell out of it. Might as well know this ahead of time and get a nice in-car response by making a nice gain at 40hz with a 12db/octave or so slope downwards as the frequency reduces. Something to consider. This is why I love abc boxes, its like having the response of a sealed box with the gain of a ported box, ideal.

 

Thanks for all of your responses. I really want to get this woofer to sound reasonable until I can upgrade in 1/2 a year or so.

. . . tuned to ??hz

I currently have a 1.2 cuft tuned to 30Hz . . . perhaps I'll invert the driver to get a little more box volume . . . and maybe I'll also shave a few inches off the port to bring the tuning up a bit.

 

How does it sound right now? I'm guessing it is too much low end? Probaby want it tuned higher, maybe around 37-40.

 

Too much low end?!?
Thats like saying your biceps are too big Rrrrolla !

Sorry, I couldn't resist

 

Right now this particular sub is sitting on a shelf in my basement. The 1.2 cube box tuned to 30hz is home to an eD 9Kv.2 8" sub. I'll need to take the 9kv.2 out and enlarge the hole first to know how the Clif Designs sounds in 1.2 cubes ported.

 

Anyone care to help here ? What's an ABC box?

 

It's a Aperiodic Bi-Chamber box

I don't really understand the concept...

example of an ABC box

 

ABC?! Boy has this come full circle!
In an other thread I was looking for advice for an ABC and because the QTS of the sub is 0.55 it was noted that an ABC really shouldn't be done (and likewise ported is less than ideal too for this sub). So I thought I would explore the possibility of Bandpass - and in this thread I'm now hearing ABC coming out again!

Generally I know how to build a box, I just can't tell when a box will get too big and the sub will "freak out" because of too much air space . . . so someone please give me good air space and tuning frequency for an ABC, Bandpass, or Ported. I can design and build, I'm just not confident that I'll be able to judge what's plainly too big, or tuned too low.

Thanks,