glennersss

Hello, i currently have a 10 cube box for 2 3512s in the back of a dodge dakota , this box is pretty big and im wondering if the size makes that much of a difference in sound level , would a box made specifcally from dd specs be as loud or is bigger better?also is there any box designs that anyone knows of that would fit in a dakota extended cab that are proven to pound, i have a ss 6500 to push the subs , would definately welcome any thoughts ,
im thinking that if i cant find a wikkid box design that a wall might be the way to go.

High_db

Yes the box will make a big diffrence if the specs from DD are diffrent than your set up. That box sounds a little big.

willcann

WOW that box is way to big. bigger is not always better. 2 3512 i would think around 3 cube ported

glennersss

so i will get better results if i build a box directly from the specs from dd?

glennersss

ok i ve been on the dd site and winISD for a hour now and cant figure out how to calculate a box ,does anyone have a box design for the 3512s that a guy can just look at the plans and build ,something thats proven?

glennersss

Thanks Mike !! aka Jalat. for the box design.. started the new box build last night , went n got 2 sheetsof 3/4 from home depot , cut all the peices , and glued the back to the bottom and the 2 sides , 2 nite ill finish the glueing on the ports , top , and braces, then screws . took lots a pics but cant figure out how to add them . anyways thanks again!

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

The box should land in the 5.5 - 6 cube mark for a pair of these. The port is rather large and the thing will come to life. Your old box was waaaaay to big, worse than a hot dog down a hallway..... man that's a big box a big box....

jalat

iTrader: (6)

What i designed for him:

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

If you can, throw a T brace in there. One leg of the T onto the center of the back wall, the other leg onto the side wall and the other leg onto the port wall. Put the T back far enough so that the subs magnet does not hit it. Cut out sections of the T much like you would if you were lightening a race car chassis. I would leave 2" all the way around and cut out the rest, basically a window though each section of the T. This adds a huge amount of stability to all walls of the box, save for the front. It will take up a marginal amount of airspace to account for as well. If you have the room, make the box taller if possible to make the area that the sub mounts to a little stronger. It looks pretty darn thin where the top and bottom of the sub are once you take the top and bottom off the measurement. Either that or make a third front and have it a solid one top to bottom instead of sandwiched in between the top and bottom. This would suffice as well. Nothing worse than the mdf splitting apart on you due to lack of material.

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

That looks really nice.

Pretty kind of you to keep helping people out also.

Glen, if you are worried at all about bracing, try using a cut up broom handle. Air flow disruption is minimal, usually hardwood, low weight, and I've seen it recommended many times, even on here.

Cheers