emperorjj1

using mat... i didn't see any in the pics. But remember resin doenst have any strength just fiberglass mat itself. so anything big you want to make sure you have mat. Also its best if the mat isnt super saturated. you should still be able to see/feel the chopped fibers in the resin after each layer

joel_perks

i used matt on the inside of the box and thanks for the tip i did not now it was better if it wasent saturarted i still bet the box isent going to last any way its the first time i did a bok with that much glass on the front of it and i though it would be stronger than it is there is still alot of flex in it

emperorjj1

yup you wouldn't think so but resin by itself is very brittle so adding more then necessary actually makes it weaker. also its very hard to get fiberglass to be as sturdy as good old fashioned mdf without using some tricks... so adding braces (2X4, all thread whatever) will defiantly help... if not fiberglass is inherently stronger when it curves so adding rope or even wire to make it wavy (of course on the inside where it wont be seen) will help out if bracing isn't possible.

lastly its always best to plan the whole thing out ahead of time and sort of build a box in a box persay. Meaning any straight edges, bracing, ect ect can be done out of wood and very much add support to the box and wont take away from the overall lock when properly planned

Just to give you an example of how important this is... on my fiberglass door pods on top i have 3 layers of fiberglass weave and a single layer of carbon fiber/kevlar (for looks but it does add some support) The inner portion is a little more solid because it has 4-5 layers of fiberglass along with the fact its screwed into the metal on the door. Yet my 8" hertz midbass still flexes the pod... So for 2 15s you will need plenty of support

joel_perks

so i havent updated in a wile but here some pics

Killer_klown187

iTrader: (20)

nice work man

joel_perks

more pics and more at the end of the day