:| Why do i keep blowing fuses?
Last weekend i finally installed a line driver in my system and it made my system pound.....for about 30seconds!!! i purchased a 8VRMS line driver and ran it to my JL HD750/1 and i blew my 60amp fuse by my battery, i then tried a 80amp fuse and this time it took about 5seconds longer to blow....any ideas on how i can fix this problem?
one of the worst things you can do is put in a larger fuse to test it out. If fuses are blowing, there is a problem in the system. they are there to protect it and are blowing for a reason. simply upping the amperage to allow more current defeats the whole purpose of having a fuse.
if it is the fuse by the battery, find out what the total draw of your system is, and use an appropriate fuse. you may have to beef it up a little. just don't throw one in to test it out, unless you know it is required.
if it is the fuse by the battery, find out what the total draw of your system is, and use an appropriate fuse. you may have to beef it up a little. just don't throw one in to test it out, unless you know it is required.
well theoretically the total draw of both my amps is about 1000RMS (750 for JL amp, 240 on the audison) but i can listen to my music perfectly fine it is only when i crank it up my fuse blows
what would be the recommended fuse for the system by the battery? i also have 2 60amp fuses in my fused distribution block but neither of them have cooked yet
what would be the recommended fuse for the system by the battery? i also have 2 60amp fuses in my fused distribution block but neither of them have cooked yet
when i say draw, i don't mean the wattage. what is the total amperage of the fuses added up on your amps? probably around 120?
i may be completely wrong, but if that is your maximum draw, then shouldn't you need around a 100amp fuse to be safe?
im not gonna lie, im no expert but i think thats how it works
the distro block fuses won't blow if the battery one blows. first fuse in line from the battery will go first. then the line will be broken, with no power reaching the block & amps.
i may be completely wrong, but if that is your maximum draw, then shouldn't you need around a 100amp fuse to be safe?
im not gonna lie, im no expert but i think thats how it works
the distro block fuses won't blow if the battery one blows. first fuse in line from the battery will go first. then the line will be broken, with no power reaching the block & amps.
There are two real reasons for blowing the fuse in the main power line. There is a dead short in the power wire (the fuse keeps the car from catching fire) or the current draw is exceeding the size of the fuse. As you have fuses in the rear of the car that have not blown it would appear that the root cause of the problem is that you are drawing more current than the up front fuse is rated for. What gauge of wire is being used as you generally fuse for the gauge of the wire and not the amps. The longer the wire is, the larger it needs to be. What length is this wire as well?
well my audison amp has a 15amp onboard fuse and the jl has none but they recommend an 80amp fuse between the distribution block and the amp? also i heard they dont make a 100amp AGU fuse and that i need to switch to an ANL type fuse by the battery can anyone comment on that?


