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150A ANL Fuse Melted!!

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Old 11-18-2008, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by loudtdi
A wire/cables amperage capacity is in direct relation to the AWG like you said, but also the length of the wire. (As an example, I would speculate a 6" piece of 4AWG can pass 500 amps without problem).

Strand count and the type of insulation also play a factor.
Correct, my bad, I missed the part where he said his amps were also mounted under his hood.
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Old 11-18-2008, 02:55 PM
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Maybe a picture of the fuse and holder might help.
Melting fuses regardless isnt a good thing
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Old 11-18-2008, 05:06 PM
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To me it seems, if the fuse is just fine, but only the casing melted, the casing is the only problem here. Perhaps get a better quality casing around that fuse, and do not use bigger than that 150A on a 4awg wire, that is even pushing it. If you are more comfortable with a 175A fuse, be prepared to go to a 2awg wire, if you want it done properly. That means upgrading grounds all around with a 2awg as well. If you cannot do the big3, then at least add a bigger wire from battery negative to the chassis. BTW, I seriously doubt those amps pull more than 150A at any given moment, even when you're raping your system.
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Old 11-19-2008, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Sasha
To me it seems, if the fuse is just fine, but only the casing melted, the casing is the only problem here. Perhaps get a better quality casing around that fuse, and do not use bigger than that 150A on a 4awg wire, that is even pushing it. If you are more comfortable with a 175A fuse, be prepared to go to a 2awg wire, if you want it done properly. That means upgrading grounds all around with a 2awg as well. If you cannot do the big3, then at least add a bigger wire from battery negative to the chassis. BTW, I seriously doubt those amps pull more than 150A at any given moment, even when you're raping your system.
The amps have their own fuses, what I'm talking about is strictly to protect the wire going to the amps from bursting in flames.

I replaced the fuse casing and fuse with a 250a ANL and wired it directly from the battery's positive booster jumper. It was improperly done, connected the positive from the fuse relay.

The system does bump, and Alpines are known for being able to be pushed. Hopefully now there wont be any problem, besides the 0AWG wire upgrade I will soon have to do.

Any feedback?
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Old 11-19-2008, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Father Yuli
and how is your battery grounded to the frame of the car? with the factory 10 gauge wire?

im also confused now as to what's happening with your fuse? did it melt, did the casing melt? wtf bro. you want help, be specific. or were you just trying to show off with the improper install?
"bro" don't bother arguing here.

The capacitor is grounded to the trunk main body frame, the battery connectors are stock and are fine still.

The fuse and fuse box both melted because I kept using them till they dropped. I redid it and it looks like the 150a wasn't enough and also that the positive wasn't hooked up in the correct location.

So let me get this right, 4AWG has a max of 125a? This is the fuse that came with the kit and capacitor and it is supposed to be good up to 3000w RMS system.
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Old 11-19-2008, 01:25 AM
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ac_2007, what brand of wiring are you using in your car? Interesting bit of info here: http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...22-post17.html
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Old 11-19-2008, 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ac_2007
The amps have their own fuses, what I'm talking about is strictly to protect the wire going to the amps from bursting in flames.

I replaced the fuse casing and fuse with a 250a ANL and wired it directly from the battery's positive booster jumper. It was improperly done, connected the positive from the fuse relay.

The system does bump, and Alpines are known for being able to be pushed. Hopefully now there wont be any problem, besides the 0AWG wire upgrade I will soon have to do.

Any feedback?
250A fuse on a 4awg of that length has no protection, may as well not use a fuse at all. Upgrade to a bigger wire ASAP. Looks like you're using a low quality wire kit, as the ratings are wrong.
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Old 11-19-2008, 02:36 AM
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My .02 cents

A 1000 watt amp at 13.8v is going to draw about 145 amps through that 4awg wire.

Fuse size should be between 125 & 140<<MAX amps on the 4awg wire.

A 15 foot run of 4awg on that 1000 watt amp will lose 8.5% of initial voltage, or down to 12.6 from the initial 13.8

83% efficient and you will lose about 170 watts of power.

Shorter runs are better, longer runs are worse.

These number can easily be calculated, or just find a calculator online.
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Old 11-19-2008, 03:03 AM
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Oh, I should mention I cheated a bit on the max fuse size, based on the fact that the max ampacity is pretty much 145, so really, to be safe, a 125 amp fuse is right on the money for TRUE 4 awg wire.

That link above is pretty interesting. Imagine poor people buying that garbage thinking it is proper 4 awg, but of course the makers never state that do they....just 4 gauge which can mean any damn thing they want.

John
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Old 11-19-2008, 03:04 AM
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Red face

Originally Posted by John__Taylor
My .02 cents

A 1000 watt amp at 13.8v is going to draw about 145 amps through that 4awg wire.

Fuse size should be between 125 & 140<<MAX amps on the 4awg wire.

A 15 foot run of 4awg on that 1000 watt amp will lose 8.5% of initial voltage, or down to 12.6 from the initial 13.8

83% efficient and you will lose about 170 watts of power.

Shorter runs are better, longer runs are worse.

These number can easily be calculated, or just find a calculator online.
Yikes. I'm using 16ft 4ga cable on a 1200W amplifier with a 150amp inline fuse. I guess I should invest in 2ga wire someday or move my amp under the seat!...

BTW is anyone selling 16ft of 2ga cable?

Last edited by shawn76; 11-19-2008 at 03:08 AM.
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