150A ANL Fuse Melted!!
11-19-2008, 10:57 AM
#21
"bro" don't bother arguing here.
The capacitor is grounded to the trunk main body frame, the battery connectors are stock and are fine still.
The fuse and fuse box both melted because I kept using them till they dropped. I redid it and it looks like the 150a wasn't enough and also that the positive wasn't hooked up in the correct location.
So let me get this right, 4AWG has a max of 125a? This is the fuse that came with the kit and capacitor and it is supposed to be good up to 3000w RMS system.
The capacitor is grounded to the trunk main body frame, the battery connectors are stock and are fine still.
The fuse and fuse box both melted because I kept using them till they dropped. I redid it and it looks like the 150a wasn't enough and also that the positive wasn't hooked up in the correct location.
So let me get this right, 4AWG has a max of 125a? This is the fuse that came with the kit and capacitor and it is supposed to be good up to 3000w RMS system.
how is your battery (the thing under the hood) grounded to the frame of the car? is it grounded with the factory 10 gauge wire? If the battery still uses the factory grounding wire then your hole wiring job is as good as the factory ground wire on your battery.
you can not pull more thru the positive 4 gauge wire than thru the factory 10 gauge ground. your amps arent even getting the current they need.
but hey, u dont really need current, cuz alpines are known for being able to be pushed, right?
11-19-2008, 11:36 AM
#22
11-19-2008, 12:08 PM
#23
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 723
Sounds like the problem could be due to friction. Perhaps you should invest in some ANL lube.
Seriously though, MTT put an excellent link up. I've read that before.
I only have a 50 amp fuse at my battery, and its never been an issue. The most I can pull with my amp is 750W of power at any given time, though I'm sure its has never happened. 4 x 60W @ 4 ohm, and 1 x 410W @ 4 ohm. I'm not sure how many Watts are in an Ampere.
D'oh! You can convert watts to amps.
So 750W/14.4V = 52.08 Amperes. Does that hold any water, or did I totally screw that up?
Seriously though, MTT put an excellent link up. I've read that before.
I only have a 50 amp fuse at my battery, and its never been an issue. The most I can pull with my amp is 750W of power at any given time, though I'm sure its has never happened. 4 x 60W @ 4 ohm, and 1 x 410W @ 4 ohm. I'm not sure how many Watts are in an Ampere.
D'oh! You can convert watts to amps.
The conversion of Watts to Amps is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts
Last edited by TragicMagic; 11-19-2008 at 12:17 PM. Reason: I'm an idiot.
11-19-2008, 01:10 PM
#24
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 26
lol you also have a cap? you do know those dont do anything, right?
how is your battery (the thing under the hood) grounded to the frame of the car? is it grounded with the factory 10 gauge wire? If the battery still uses the factory grounding wire then your hole wiring job is as good as the factory ground wire on your battery.
you can not pull more thru the positive 4 gauge wire than thru the factory 10 gauge ground. your amps arent even getting the current they need.
but hey, u dont really need current, cuz alpines are known for being able to be pushed, right?
how is your battery (the thing under the hood) grounded to the frame of the car? is it grounded with the factory 10 gauge wire? If the battery still uses the factory grounding wire then your hole wiring job is as good as the factory ground wire on your battery.
you can not pull more thru the positive 4 gauge wire than thru the factory 10 gauge ground. your amps arent even getting the current they need.
but hey, u dont really need current, cuz alpines are known for being able to be pushed, right?
The battery (the thing under the hood by the front right wheel.. Chryslers >.<) Is stock wired and is a 5 year old Canadian tire one. No yellow top yet. No big 3 upgrade was done, as I mentioned in the first post if you were paying any attention.
Nobody realizes the biggest mistake in the wiring? Besides that it was done at Best Buy, it is that the positive cable was connected thru the fuse relay, now I rewired myself and it is from the positive booster connector which is connected directly to the battery.
Capacitors don't do anything at all, they provide about 2-3 seconds of power when the bass hits, just eye candy and it came with the Stinger installation kit.
Stinger is the brand of wire.
11-19-2008, 01:34 PM
#26
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 26
To Do:
- Big 3
- Wire with 0AWG
- Yellow Top battery
Any more suggestions?
11-19-2008, 01:54 PM
#28
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 26
Im sorry not everyone was born with the awesome knowledge you have, I have installed a couple systems through.If you're so smart why don't you buy yourself a real car? I asked so I could learn, but obviously on the internet there are going to be trolls who like to boast about themselves and waste space on the forum
11-19-2008, 01:55 PM
#29
Open up, here comes the spoon.....
if you're using "true" 4awg, you don't need to upgrade the wire with the setup you have.
Music is dynamic and at no point (for any length of time), with music, will you even be really close to the amount of draw that you'd be required to upgrade you're wiring.
Big 3 definitely wouldn't hurt. and you battery, well if it starts your car it's fine.
the ratings you quoted on your amps was a little off, unless I'm wrong and Alpine released a 2-Ohm version of the type R components, yours are 4-Ohm and you amp puts out 100 wattsx4 @4-Ohms.
which puts you at a max amp output of 1400watts (being very optimistic).
again, with music, you wont be hitting anywhere near that.
go HERE fill in the blanks, hit enter and you'll see what I mean
and BTW, Yuli probably knows more about this stuff than anyone else who has posted in this thread, probably a good idea to listen to him than start a war you can't win.
if you're using "true" 4awg, you don't need to upgrade the wire with the setup you have.
Music is dynamic and at no point (for any length of time), with music, will you even be really close to the amount of draw that you'd be required to upgrade you're wiring.
Big 3 definitely wouldn't hurt. and you battery, well if it starts your car it's fine.
the ratings you quoted on your amps was a little off, unless I'm wrong and Alpine released a 2-Ohm version of the type R components, yours are 4-Ohm and you amp puts out 100 wattsx4 @4-Ohms.
which puts you at a max amp output of 1400watts (being very optimistic).
again, with music, you wont be hitting anywhere near that.
go HERE fill in the blanks, hit enter and you'll see what I mean
and BTW, Yuli probably knows more about this stuff than anyone else who has posted in this thread, probably a good idea to listen to him than start a war you can't win.
Last edited by MTT; 11-19-2008 at 01:57 PM.
11-19-2008, 02:08 PM
#30
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 26
Open up, here comes the spoon.....
if you're using "true" 4awg, you don't need to upgrade the wire with the setup you have.
Music is dynamic and at no point (for any length of time), with music, will you even be really close to the amount of draw that you'd be required to upgrade you're wiring.
Big 3 definitely wouldn't hurt. and you battery, well if it starts your car it's fine.
the ratings you quoted on your amps was a little off, unless I'm wrong and Alpine released a 2-Ohm version of the type R components, yours are 4-Ohm and you amp puts out 100 wattsx4 @4-Ohms.
which puts you at a max amp output of 1400watts (being very optimistic).
again, with music, you wont be hitting anywhere near that.
go HERE fill in the blanks, hit enter and you'll see what I mean
and BTW, Yuli probably knows more about this stuff than anyone else who has posted in this thread, probably a good idea to listen to him than start a war you can't win.
if you're using "true" 4awg, you don't need to upgrade the wire with the setup you have.
Music is dynamic and at no point (for any length of time), with music, will you even be really close to the amount of draw that you'd be required to upgrade you're wiring.
Big 3 definitely wouldn't hurt. and you battery, well if it starts your car it's fine.
the ratings you quoted on your amps was a little off, unless I'm wrong and Alpine released a 2-Ohm version of the type R components, yours are 4-Ohm and you amp puts out 100 wattsx4 @4-Ohms.
which puts you at a max amp output of 1400watts (being very optimistic).
again, with music, you wont be hitting anywhere near that.
go HERE fill in the blanks, hit enter and you'll see what I mean
and BTW, Yuli probably knows more about this stuff than anyone else who has posted in this thread, probably a good idea to listen to him than start a war you can't win.
- 150w RMS x 4 channels @ 2 ohms
(look at the alpine north american page)
The speakers however are 100w RMS each, 300w max.
With the fuses adding up to 175a, and my total system RMS @ 1400 it is clear that 4 AWG wasn't a good choice. The only thing I can do now is work my way up to fixing everything.
And btw I'm not starting a war, peoples' arrogance irritates me especially when they realize they were in the same position at some point in their life.
