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2 way coaxial system

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Old 10-17-2007, 10:52 PM
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2 way coaxial system

Hi,

I would like the know what is that best way to wire a 2 way coaxial sound system.

I will have
2 4" speakers in the Dash
2 5.25" in the Doors
2 4x6" in the Rear

i am not sure what amp to get to power these 6 speakers(suggestions are welcome)

there is a switch at the bottom of my head unit when it is out of its slot.
it has the option of 2 way and 3 way.
for the set up that i want, where should i set it?

thanks for any help
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:26 AM
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Does anybody know what i am trying to say here?

It is possible that i was not clear for i am very new to car audio

thanks for any help

Jazz
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Old 10-18-2007, 12:03 PM
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I have an alpine head unit with the 2 or 3 way switch. You say you're speakers are all coax?

What you didn't say is if you have subs?

***-muming the speakers are all 4 ohm and full range, I would use a 4 channel amp and run the door and dash speakers parralel of ch 1 & 2, for a 2 ohm load per side. Rears run off ch 3 & 4.
Your head unit needs set to 2 way, using front and rear RCA's to the 4 ch amp. Set the hpf to 100 Hz or you'll kill your speakers.

The sub output is for your sub amp. Mono amps still have 2 rca inputs. Your sub plays all the low frequencies.
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Old 10-18-2007, 12:10 PM
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In my old car i used an active 3 way system,
12" subs on the sub RCa's, below 80 Hz (300 wrms each)
6" mini subs, low in the doors, on rear RCA's for Midbass 80-250Hz,
front 3 way 5-1/4" high in the doors, for above 250 Hz. (125 wrms x 4)

worked well.
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Old 10-18-2007, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom.F.1
I have an alpine head unit with the 2 or 3 way switch. You say you're speakers are all coax?

What you didn't say is if you have subs?

***-muming the speakers are all 4 ohm and full range, I would use a 4 channel amp and run the door and dash speakers parralel of ch 1 & 2, for a 2 ohm load per side. Rears run off ch 3 & 4.
Your head unit needs set to 2 way, using front and rear RCA's to the 4 ch amp. Set the hpf to 100 Hz or you'll kill your speakers.

The sub output is for your sub amp. Mono amps still have 2 rca inputs. Your sub plays all the low frequencies.
Yes, they will be all Coax.

I will definatley want to buy a sub.

Yes, they will be 4 ohm speakers.

Would it also make sense to run the dash speakers off the Head Unit and the doors and rears through a 4 channel amp?

Jazz
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Old 10-19-2007, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Jazz
Would it also make sense to run the dash speakers off the Head Unit and the doors and rears through a 4 channel amp?
Jazz
That might work, but amped speakers always sound better than your HU amp.

You could try it both ways to find out what sounds better.
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Old 10-19-2007, 11:34 AM
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these are the speakers that i will be using

Dash
4" Polk Audio DB400 35W
Door
5.25" Polk Audio BD 525 45W
Rear
4"x6" Polk Audio Db 460 40W

What would be a good Amp to Run these with an Alpine CDA9833 Head Unit.
I am thinking of the Profile AP 1040 4 x 80W.
However, Crutchfield customer Service says that 80W is too powerful and it can blow my speakers and cause fires.

Any suggestions?
Jazz

Last edited by Jazz; 10-19-2007 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 10-20-2007, 11:40 AM
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well it could, but usually you'll know long before by the smell of the burning coil. I would look for a good quality, 4 x40 watt amp for the speakers, you can parallel the front sets to run off the front channels of the amp, and use the rear channels for the rear. Another option, since that deck has a powerful internal amp is to power the rear speakers with that, and use the 4 channel to power just the front speakers. Believe me, 40 watts on 4" and 5.25" speakers is more than loud enoug, especially if they're efficient. As far as Profile amps are concerned, they seem pretty decent and a good value, as I've seen Crutchfield carrying them for 20 years now...they must be decent for that company to keep them.
Always use the rms rating on your speakers to determine the power they should get until you have enough experience to play with higher than recommended power. Some of these guys on here have been doing this stuff for years (i've been into it for 23 years now), so we know what we're doing and understand the risks and how to use power properly when we're over powering speakers. Since you're new, stick with good basic set ups until you get more experience.
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Old 10-21-2007, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by veeman
well it could, but usually you'll know long before by the smell of the burning coil. I would look for a good quality, 4 x40 watt amp for the speakers, you can parallel the front sets to run off the front channels of the amp, and use the rear channels for the rear. Another option, since that deck has a powerful internal amp is to power the rear speakers with that, and use the 4 channel to power just the front speakers. Believe me, 40 watts on 4" and 5.25" speakers is more than loud enoug, especially if they're efficient. As far as Profile amps are concerned, they seem pretty decent and a good value, as I've seen Crutchfield carrying them for 20 years now...they must be decent for that company to keep them.
Always use the rms rating on your speakers to determine the power they should get until you have enough experience to play with higher than recommended power. Some of these guys on here have been doing this stuff for years (i've been into it for 23 years now), so we know what we're doing and understand the risks and how to use power properly when we're over powering speakers. Since you're new, stick with good basic set ups until you get more experience.
Hi
I cant seem to find any Profile Amps at 4 x 40W. I did find a 4 x 60W....can this one pass or is it better if i stick to 40W no matter what?

Also, when searching for an amp, how can i tell if the cross overs are defeatable? Many of the descriptions say "variable" ...does this mean that they have the option to be turned off?...or is that something entirely different?

thanks
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Old 10-21-2007, 10:38 AM
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4x60 watts is fine. virtually all stand alone amplifiers have a defeatable or flat setting for the cross over. It'll usually say; LP off HP or LP FLAT HP, this means low pass off high pass. SOme exceptions would be subwoofer amps that are frequency limited to usually under 400 hz, in which case they'll have just a low pass (LP) x over. Variable just means you can set the actual frequency cut off within a range, as opposed to set crossover points ie. 50, 80, 100 hz. That Profile amp has a spot in the middle called "full" that's the same as off of no cross over( I saw the photo of it on the crutchfield website). It's good to go!
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