Advantages with subs/speakers with higher sensitivity
03-01-2004, 08:05 PM
#11
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It is somewhat true in high frequency speakers. Again, I think it is the environment that is the big problem. The test is performed in a completely different environment than what the speaker will be listened to.
Every example I have seen was measured at 1w/1m but it could be different, some companies use voltage instead of watts, but I have not seen it. 2.83V I believe but I could be wrong.
I am not sure what frequency they use. I would assume that it would be within the drivers usefull frequency range.
I would worry about power response more in high frequency drivers, but that spec is rarely included, I know my old Soundstream Reference components included it, but it was not a clear number like sens. so I think that is why it isn't used extensively.
Every example I have seen was measured at 1w/1m but it could be different, some companies use voltage instead of watts, but I have not seen it. 2.83V I believe but I could be wrong.
I am not sure what frequency they use. I would assume that it would be within the drivers usefull frequency range.
I would worry about power response more in high frequency drivers, but that spec is rarely included, I know my old Soundstream Reference components included it, but it was not a clear number like sens. so I think that is why it isn't used extensively.
03-02-2004, 08:24 AM
#12
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lets say we take 2 good woofers, say an eclipse 8810.4 86db sens. and an avi sls250 88.5db sens. take a 100 watt amplifier, build a .5 cubic foot box(both will work well in that box)take an in car measuremnet both at fb, now both of these speakers have identical re, 3.4ohms, would that same 100 watts not give you 2.5db more output on the avi speaker, assuming that you matched the amps output to the fb frequency on each woofer/box combo using a test tone
03-02-2004, 01:44 PM
#14
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^^Unlikely. Can you guarantee that the AVI and the Eclipse were measured the same way?
Dereck gave the 'generally accepted' way of measuring sensitivity: free field, 2.83volts(which is 1 watt at 8 ohms remember), 1 metre... Also important is that it is at 1000hz. This means a speaker with a lighter cone/voice coil assembly will usually be more sensitive. Small light coils mean lower power handling though - Chizzer, this is why the Kicker guy said more sensitive drivers handle less power, because typically they have smaller voice coils.
This also accounts for why woofers in general show lower efficiency specs than midranges that are designed to work in the 1000hz range.
Now, add in that not all manufacturers measure the same way. Some will use 1watt at the impedence of the woofer while others stick to 2.83volts which is 2 watts for a 4 ohm woofer (theoretical 3db advandage) and even more for lower impedences. Also, I have seen ratings at 0.5metre, again this gives an output advantage, and even ratings with the driver loaded into a box or even in a car!
There is no hard and fast rule for measuring so nobody is truly breaking any rules. This is why that spec means nothing from brand to brand. Within a brand though it can be relavent though since most companies measure their own stuff the same way all the time.
Dereck gave the 'generally accepted' way of measuring sensitivity: free field, 2.83volts(which is 1 watt at 8 ohms remember), 1 metre... Also important is that it is at 1000hz. This means a speaker with a lighter cone/voice coil assembly will usually be more sensitive. Small light coils mean lower power handling though - Chizzer, this is why the Kicker guy said more sensitive drivers handle less power, because typically they have smaller voice coils.
This also accounts for why woofers in general show lower efficiency specs than midranges that are designed to work in the 1000hz range.
Now, add in that not all manufacturers measure the same way. Some will use 1watt at the impedence of the woofer while others stick to 2.83volts which is 2 watts for a 4 ohm woofer (theoretical 3db advandage) and even more for lower impedences. Also, I have seen ratings at 0.5metre, again this gives an output advantage, and even ratings with the driver loaded into a box or even in a car!
There is no hard and fast rule for measuring so nobody is truly breaking any rules. This is why that spec means nothing from brand to brand. Within a brand though it can be relavent though since most companies measure their own stuff the same way all the time.
03-02-2004, 03:48 PM
#15
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dukk:
[QB] ^^Unlikely. Can you guarantee that the AVI and the Eclipse were measured the same way?do you mean how the manufacturer tested for sensitivity, if thats what you mean than i can only go on published parameters of sensitivity, which said it was 1w-1m
[QB] ^^Unlikely. Can you guarantee that the AVI and the Eclipse were measured the same way?do you mean how the manufacturer tested for sensitivity, if thats what you mean than i can only go on published parameters of sensitivity, which said it was 1w-1m
03-03-2004, 02:31 PM
#16
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Yeah. My concern is that they probably don't use the identical method of determining sensitivity and also that a speaker with a larger coil, heavier cone, and stiffer surround will give a lower sensitivity at 1000hz but indeed may be a superior bass driver.
Sensitivity is one of the least important parameters IMO.
Sensitivity is one of the least important parameters IMO.
03-03-2004, 02:51 PM
#17
Sensitivity can be a good determiner if your system is going to play at moderate listening levels, and you want to match the response between the front stage and the subs when you turn the volume up.
03-03-2004, 04:05 PM
#18
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 42
As stated, not all companies measure in the same way. When I worked for the Canadian distributer for Kicker the tech guys told me their rating was at the 3db downpoint in an infinite baffle not atthe most efficient point in a box. As also stated all this goes out the window when you throw the sub in a box.
If I may get on my soapbox
This is another good reason to consult your knowledgable car audio shop. If they can't help you, get the manufactures rep to help you. The money you save by buying on the net can quite often get you an unbalanced system. Support your local retailer.
If I may get on my soapbox
This is another good reason to consult your knowledgable car audio shop. If they can't help you, get the manufactures rep to help you. The money you save by buying on the net can quite often get you an unbalanced system. Support your local retailer.
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