MontanaVanMan

Hi!

Well I finally got everything installed (Amp, sub, speakers & new HU) but find that my CDA-9831 gets hot after its on for 30 minutes or more.
I read the manual and it does mention that it does this.
My concern is that after I remove the head for security, the whole metal with the connector (main unit) is REALLY hot!
I've deactivated both the internal amp and the power IC feature going to it (power supply) in the settings menu as I am strictly running RCA's into my amp.
Any comments from other alpine users?

Thanks!

Paul

2 8's AKA Jeepbeats

iTrader: (19)

Are you running the full time power wire directly from the battery, preferrably at least 10awg? Also, is the deck grounded through the factory harness, or to bare metal?

[ January 17, 2005, 09:43 PM: Message edited by: Jeepbeats ]

MontanaVanMan

I'll be honest. I had a store that does installs do everything including swapping out my older Kenwood KDC-X569 Excelon deck to the Alpine CDA-9831.
I know that my old deck had a ground strap from it to the actual metal part of my van and I think they didn't do that with the alpine (ie factory harness hookup only).
Also the positive power wire for the HU I think may also be going thru the factory harness (although I never had an issue with my old Kenwood deck running it directly with its internal amp.)
My amp is under my driver's seat and is grounded directly to it(negative lead going right to the seat bolt) plus a separate 6 gauge wire going direct to the battery for the positive side.
I guess I'm going to have to pull the panel off and see what's been done!
If nothing else, I want to make sure the ground strap is hooked up for extra security!
Paul

coulter

the alpine should definately be hooked up right to the battery and have its own separate ground, not using stock wires. i think it says that right on the alpine wiring harness?

i used to have the same kenwood deck, it runs fine without upgraded wires, but then i an alpine 9815 and it specifically tells you to use separate wires for ground and power.

also, im not sure if the 9831 has a fan or not, but if it does, make sure nothing is blocking it directly behind the dash. i had a problem with my 9815 getting pretty hot, and it was because the fan in the rear was blocked by a bunch of wires and what not.

92zed34

iTrader: (4)

Ive noticed my 9815 getting pretty hot too , hmmm
I figured the 10 awg was for the higher power internal amp ,which i'm not using so i also used factory wires,Will be running new wires when its warmer......

NOBASS

Had the same problem with an older Alpine. CDs would actually mistrack when it was hot.

This was an entry level powered CD HU, using the preouts only. The only way I could squeeze a couple more years of life out of it was to physically remove the PA section and connect to the preouts. Never heated up again after that.

Oh, and none of my preout only Alpines from the old days ever heated up like that.

Mark

[ January 18, 2005, 05:12 PM: Message edited by: NOBASS ]

pinhead

so if he deactivated his output chip i see no need to upgrade the wiring
the cause of your heat is probably the lamps for the faceplate and display

MontanaVanMan

Thanks for all the replies!
I'll definitely be re-wiring it to make sure I have a direct positive/negative connection to my battery as opposed to the factory harness (and install the ground strap as extra assurance!).
I think I do have a fan in the rear of the deck (I can hear a high pitch sound when I completely turn down the volume when I run the tuner) so I'll make sure there are no wires blocking the vent.
Other than that a very noticeable improvement in clarity over the Kenwood!

Paul

mik

iTrader: (1)

My Alpine 9813 did get hot, but I disabled the internal IC, cleared the way in front of the fan, and use blackout mode on the face plate and it doesnt even heat up anymore.
Im using the stock power and ground wires out of the harness without any problems in my civic.

gurlwithboom

iTrader: (1)

Yep, mine gets hot too [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]