Im looking for an amp to run my speakers. CDT Eurosport Components in the front, rated for 200W RMS, while xover is rated for 180W RMS. CDT components in the back, rated for 110 W RMS.

Im trying to figure out what amp could suit my desire for good audio sound. I found an old Fultron/Memphis Belle 6 channel amp. It's rated for:

4 x 75W + 2 x 150W @ 4 ohms
4 x 150W + 2 x 300W @ 2 ohms
2 x 300W + 1 x 600W @ 4 ohms bridged

What do you think about doing the fronts active at 2 x 150W and feeding the front xovers with the tweets (i understand the tweet is still supposed to be connected to the xover when going active with mids) along with the back two channels into the 4 x 75W. All at 4 ohm. I wouldn't even mind just running all passive at 150W fronts and 75W rears, but I have never heard/tried active.

Would love to try 4 channels bridged at 2 ohm, 150W /ch. How would a 110W rated speaker handle 150W? Again, I havent heard 2 ohm vs 4 ohm, but that way I could have fronts bumping at 150W and rears gained down to handle 150W. And I could just throw a decent sub on channel 5/6.

I am just a tad confused on the amps rating. It's rated for 4 x 150W + 2 x 300W @ 2 ohms, but also 2 x 300W + 1 x 600W @ 4 ohms bridged. Does that mean that I wont be able to power my fronts and backs at 4 x 150W @ 2 ohms, because they are 4 ohm speakers? And for me to get more power into them would be to bridge them (since the power at 4 ohms is rated as 4 x 75W), and get 2x 300W + 1 x 600W @ 4 bridged? Are you following me?

I really could consider different options if all I could get out of this amp is ch 5 & 6 at 150W powering fronts and channel 1 & 2 powering rears, with channel 3 & 4 free, which I said I wouldn't really mind. Maybe there is something to be had running my mids active at 150W and then running the rears passive at 75W along with the front tweets and xover, giving me 2 x 150, and 4 x 75? (obv i know the tweet isnt pusing 75W ^^)

Please give me some input. Thank you.

P.S. How does bridging this amp give you an output at 4 ohms? I thought if u bridge 4 channels into two, it ened up 2 ohm? Maybe its possible to run my fronts at 300W, that way I can tack on a 600W sub at 4 ohms onto this amp and get a weaksauce 100 x 2 @ 4 ohms for the rears.

 

Wait.

Since the rating for 4 x 150W at 2 ohm is still 4 channel, does that mean that to get 150W into 4 channels I need 2 ohm speakers? Can't get 150W x 4 with 4 ohm? And If I bridge the speakers, Im putting 300W into them? And the 4 ohms output while bridged... does that mean I have to wire my speakers to increase impedence ( bridged 4 ohm -> 2 ohm -> wire in series to increase 2 ohm to 4 ohm? lul for confusion, please) OR that the amp will still do 4 ohms even if its bridged?


Daymn, smart people, straighten my head out please!

 

what you would get out of that amp is 300x2 (bridged), and 150x2.

 

You don't need your passive to the tweet if you're running active. As long as the amp has high enough Xover points to accommodate. Are all 6 channels full/hi/low adjustable. If you wanted to run active front, I'd run 75 to each front tweet, 150 to front mids, and 75 to each rear component running passive. this would take up all channels of the amp
And you'd have to get a dedicated sub amp.

Or run passive with the fronts at 150, rears at 75ea, and a bridged 300@4ohms for sub channel. Depends how much bass you want. There's sooo many options with this amp if it is fully adjustable.

If you have 4 ohm speakers the only way to run the amp at 2 ohm would be running speakers parallel. 2 sets of speakers on 1 amp channel. You could run all 4 woofers off 2 channels at 2 ohms for 300rms, and all four tweets off another 2 channels @2 ohms for 150rms. Disadvantage to this is that there's no fader control or sperate tuning front to rear.

Or run the fronts bridged at 300 ea passive, and the rears on 150 ea. passive. Again no sub channel. So many options.

Bridging an amp is using 2 channels to act as 1. When bridging, almost all amps are only good for a four ohm minimum load.