One run from the front batt (positive) and one run from my alternator. Grounded each batt to the frame of the car in the trunk, and no isolator.

Please, for the love of god, run an extra batt.

Not sure where you are located, but if local, i got some NSB 75's for sale that would go very well with your setup.

 

Gotcha. I would rather not have an extra battery if I can help it. I allready have enough weight from the hcca's in my car. I will try without but if worse comes to worse then I will be forced to. What is an nsb 75? Is that like a kinetic or stinger? Also I have always heard that adding an extra battery just puts more strain on the alternator as it has 2 batterys to charge now, not just one.

 

I never had a charging issue off my stock alt (120A). I choose the NSB's because they have a large reserve rate. They are telecom batts that compare to Kinetiks and batts alike for a fraction of the cost. They are relatively small in size also.

If you are worried about weight and size, there is a Batcap 2000 for sale on the forums that would do very well also, and thats a tiny size for the performance it gives.

I can tell you ahead of time, that you will not get very good performance out of that AQ using stock electrical. And I wouldn't want you spending coin on an amp you'll be running at half power.

 

Whats the draw on those 2200's ? im going to guess 200ish amps? Well i have a sundown saz1500 and before i added my second battery if i wasnt doing 50km and listening to anything with decent bass i would not be able to crank it. I could easily dip sub 12 and if i was at a stop i had to dial it down even more. And that was with a 180amp alt and big 3 and all that in 0ga.

If those amps are protect happy under 12v i would seriously consider running 2 identical dry cells. Heck even if there not you really dont want your electrical dropping that low specially in newer cars that also rely so much on that electrical system to power computers and .

 

I hear you guys for sure. The aq amp draw 200 full tilt for sure but I will keep the gain down for now till I can afford to have my alt rebuilt. I will also look into an extra battery ( small one ) The big 3 made a huge difference in my charging system so I am confident I can run the aq with gains set at minimum for now. I am also now thinking of the brz2100d. cea compliant and probably draw a bit less than the aq but not much and will still give me 2k when I get a new alt.

 

AQ greater than Hifonics

You'll see a proper 2krms will good electrical outta that AQ, which is something you definitely wont see outta the Hifonics

 

This might be true but you guys are saying that my electrical is not up to snuff. I have heard that the aq is effecient and now I here it's a protect mode addiction The brz2100 is probably a better option for me.

 

I'm telling you from experience thats all.

'95 Corolla with stock alt, 1/0 wiring throughout, motomaster batt up front, batcap 2000 in the rear, 0.5 ohm nominal, anything below 12V will go into protect

NOW. I will admit this is at 0.5 ohm, so yes, the current draw will be much more, but its just an example.

 

It's all good.......it's just a tough decision. I have heard nothing bad and lots good about the aq but I think I will go with the hifonics. I know that it will run in my car cause I had a bxi2608d and that worked in my car with no probs ( slight dimming ) and that is about the same power as the brz2100. ( bxi overratted/brz cea-compliant ) I don't think I should risk it by getting the aq. Besides I really like the look of the brz amps. The look solid and love the black heat sinks. I like looks as much as performance and the brz is a bit cheaper. I don't think I will regret getting it. Even if it's not a perfect 2k I don't think that it will be an audible difference to me. I reall am considering an extra battery though since you mention it earlier.

Oh I forgot to ask........how heavy are kinetik batterys. Do you think they are lighter then conventional deep cycles of the same rating.