John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so we're back to what I sort of suspected in the first post, the amp is going to split the load if I use both of the connections on it. Makes perfect sense now I think about it, single channel, but 2 connections.

Well, hooking it up at 4 ohms per sub cant hurt the amp, so I guess its time to go play.

Should only take 2 or 3 weeks to get all the settings right on this thing

Thanks to everybody who responded!

Killer_klown187

iTrader: (20)

Yeah Audison is FULL of tons of neat lil things!! If you can keep the power up im am sure the 0.5ohm load would do alright(might blow it up too) I ran my 1.400 @ 0.35ohms and it took it well!! (not daily driven though, just effin around). Yes, 1 load, 2 connections!! it auto determines etc...

Sasha

iTrader: (10)

Yes. You have two options how to connect the subs. Either way, you can run it at 2 ohms final load. Switch subs to 4 ohms each. If you just connect each sub in each own speaker terminal, you will get 2 ohms final load. If you bridge the subs inside the box, for example, and use one speaker terminal, you will still have a 2 ohm final load.

Option two is more popular, cause it is easier to have one output on the box, so you have plug and play sort of speak. Also, less visible wires on the outside.

Sasha

iTrader: (10)

I would double check, if you can strap the amps together, and still run them at 1 ohm final load, because I have a feeling, if you do daisy-chain them, you can only use them a 2 ohms final load to get the full power.

Sasha

iTrader: (10)

...you can only use them at 2 ohms final load to get the full power, cause that is the general consensus with amp manufacturers, cause now you have double the power coming from one set of terminals.

Now, I am pretty sure if you use one set of speaker terminals on the one amp of the two strapped amps, the final load has to be 2 ohms, but if you can use both terminals on the one amp, then I think it may be possible to plug in 2 ohms into each terminal, and this way get 1 ohm final load by using two sets of terminals, therefore dividing the power between the two.

I would make sure, all this is possible with the given set-up.

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Now that both of you have educated me enough to at least be able to speak to Audison, I will call or email when I am ready for the other subs.

Right now it is running at 2ohms and sounds wonderful. Manual is in the car () right now, but I think 2ohm is 650rms, so 325 per sub.

I will be trying different things with it all night.

Excellent information, thanks a million!

John

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Yes, well, bad form to reply to ones own posts, but I must say that now I've had a taste of Audison......no going back. I know its "only" a sub amp, but even so, I can hear a huge difference (LP at 125). I guess the A/B design helps as well.

It does get a bit warm, but not bad, no worse than the TC4004. To be honest, I turned everything up to "painful" and let it run for 15 minutes to break it in. I was outside the truck having a pop of course.....

Hmm...MONEY MAKING IDEA...I think I will design an amp enclosure with an integrated 12v peltier cooler. Would have to incorporate a drip tray, but that could be solved by offsetting the unit. They are good for 30 degrees or so below ambiant.

Cheers

John

Sasha

iTrader: (10)

I am pretty sure the amp is a D-class not AB. And 125 on LP is waaay too high. I am sure at this frequency the bass is very directional, and you can hear it slamming from the rear. If you keep the LP below 80hz, you wont know where the bass comes from, and that sounds a million times better. And keep your front stage below 80gz HP for best SQ, if possible, I hope you have at least 6.5" components in there. I cross everything around 60hz, and it sounds incredible, but not many mids can take crossing this low, and still slam loud and clear when needed. You also will need a nice amp for the front stage. For components, 2.500 Audison will not dissapoint.

I think user Carfi4ever, or something, has some nice Audisons for sale along with high end Focal components. As you may know, Focal and Audison had been a marriage made in heaven for years now. He is in Scarborough. Excellent guy to deal with.

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

I had a massive answer typed up Sasha, but the darn site logged me out and I lost it.

I will adjust the LP on Audison
Fronts and rear doors are JL, 150rms each
Amp is MTX 4004, 72rms per channel at 4ohm, 519rms total at 2ohm
HP set to 80 on fronts and rears, but MTX sett to full range with some boost. I know one is deafeating the other, but it sounds good.

I want to try Boston Pro 60's in the front. I will go down to Michegan at the end of September and buy them. $259.00. I doubt anyone up here can match that, but I would be willing to pay up to $350.00 MAX if someone could.

Thank You so, so much for your input. You have no idea how much "simple" stuff to you, helps me.

Yes, he is a fantastic fellow to deal with

Cheers

John

Sasha

iTrader: (10)

Good. That MTX amp has to go Get an Audison, and set it correctly to match with your other Audison. If those Pro's are the newest version, they are extremely nice. The tweeters on the previous versions were just harsh crap. It looks like you're building a nice system this time.

If I understand correctly, you're crossing front and rears with your head unit HP. If so, the amp SHOULD be in full range, so your settings are correct. You should either use your deck or the amps to cross - not both at the same time. If you have a subwoofer xover feature on your deck too, you can cross everything from the deck, which is convenient. Do u have a nice deck?