nghtrdr

Quote
"Hmm...MONEY MAKING IDEA...I think I will design an amp enclosure with an integrated 12v peltier cooler. Would have to incorporate a drip tray, but that could be solved by offsetting the unit. They are good for 30 degrees or so below ambiant."

Not a good idea im afraid. nor very effecient for car use. they produce more heat than they can disipate in this setting, and use way too much current to do it.. this is the reason that we techs stopped using them for our computers years ago. water cooling is the way to go and very cheap today. go visit ur local computer store and take a look. the water cooling used for computers can easily be used to cool ur amps and do it effeciently to.

gl

nghtrdr

btw how do you like the kappas??

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

They sound very nice, better than the other Infinity's I had (1250 iirc?). The other ones were the next model down and used a polypropaline cone material I think. These ones use some type of woven fiber. It sort of looks like uncured fiberglass cloth really. Same texture and a completely different sound. I have a "feeling" they like more power. Right now they are getting 325 each I think from the Audison, and they are rated for 350, but I have read some reviews where people are feeding them 500 (without being stupid about it) and they love it.

If it makes any sense to you, they sound "softer" than my previous ones. A bass drum beat SOUNDS like a bass drum now, not just some deep bass note. I'm probably not explaining myself correctly, but hopefully you get what I mean.

Peltier coolers suck bad for efficiency, 100% correct. However with the right size heatsink, correct ducting, and a 4" 12v fan for airflow, they work ok for things like portable coolers (I have 2 of them). They are certainly not as good as a real fridge (compressor) but still, 25 to 30 degrees below ambient is not too bad, but I'm not disagreeing with you.

My overclocking days go back pretty much to the Celeron 300 and liquid was used even back then, but nothing like the neat turn key soloutions around today.

Ever seen a case full of cooking oil? Every component immersed in liquid . Computer boots and runs as normal.

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Sorry, I missed this one last night. No, its not that nice. Pioneer DEh6000 I think (have to go look).

I pretty much was looking for these features, in order of importance:

1) 3 pre outs
2) Highest voltage I could get in price range
3) USB
4) Sirius capability
5) Everything else just standard stuff.

I am trying to control most everything from the deck, except the Audison subsonic has to stay on and is fixed (sort of). Oh, and that "Q" setting on the Audison is on, but thats getting into the black magic area for me, dont know what it does or why I should use it.

HP is set to 80 for the doors with the MTX set for full range, i get just the tiniest bit of bass from the doors that way.

Sub LP is set to 80 now (from the deck) and in rev mode because it sounds better that way.

SInce I have it sounding fairly good (at least to me) I havent futzed much with the equalizers any more. One setting I have is "powerful" and the actual numbers are all maybe +1 or flat on the other parameters.

HOWEVER, the Audison has both HP & LP filters set to ON from the factory, with both ***** set to 500 which is max. Not sure if that is doing anything or not since the subs only do 350hz anyway according to spec sheet.

Sasha

iTrader: (10)

Looks like a good deck. I would turn the Q off for more natural sound. I would also leave deck EQ on flat, but I guess it is your choice, whatever sounds better to you. On Audison, I would set both HP and LP filters to full range, check your manual, I think it is simply to have the buttons unpressed. With current setting, LP at 500 would work, but HP at 500 is sooo wrong. Slowly, you will understand the basics, for now, too bad I guess , you seem to be a bit confused how these things work.

LP means, frequencies below the setting are being passed through, HP means, freqs above the setting are being passed through.

And I really dont think you need to worry about your cooling that much. Even SPL guys do not give such a damn, and they really work those amps.

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Well, yes and no. I do understand the low and high pass functions, but where I made my stupid mistake was thinking I was controlling things through the deck, not realizing of course that the deck cant do anything if the amp is set incorrectly.

Obviously I will now kill the HP on the amp, and drop the LP down to 300 or so which is all the sub can do anyway.

Thanks for the tip on the Q factor.

As for the cooling, sure, a bit overboard there, but its fun to go from design to build to fully functional. I may do it just for the Hell of it anyway. Not for the amps sake, because as you say, I'm sure others push them much harder than I do without problems, but just for fun.

Cheers

John

Sasha

iTrader: (10)

Kill LP as well on the amp, if possible. No need. Deck does everything. That 300hz on the amp idea is pointless, and has nothing to do with how much your sub can do. Makes sense?

You can probably set your sub amp and deck xover to full range and still have zero problems with the sub. Point of that rating is, that the sub will not produce those higher freqs well, due to the design and materials used, as it will be phusically impossible for rugged material to produce high freqs, where light material should be used. Freq response on any subwoofer rolls off after around 150hz and up. On the opposite end, you will however blow the tweeter with full range settings, and the sound will be harsh.

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Yep, I got it, thanks. Just I have to read the manual a bit more. The translation is pretty funny actually .

I dont think I can kill the LP on the amp. I read something about only ONE of the sub connections on the amp being powered if you kill the LP. Sounds weird, but it may just be me misuderstanding the translation.

150, ok, I'll remember that. The cones on these subs are pretty darn stiff, thats for sure. Thick as well, so based on what you are saying there isnt a hope in Hell they will even do 250 as per the spec sheet, heh.

Sasha

iTrader: (10)

Ok, if you cant kill the sub amp LP, no problem. Just jack it up to high freq, and your deck will cut it at proper freq. 150HZ was an estimate just for the arguement sake to get the point across. The subs may very well do 250hz, but at a very low volume, as efficiency of the sub starts to drop sort of speak at higher freqs. It may very well be rated at 5db SPL at around 500hz, if there is an available freq response graph in the manual. The sub freq just rolls off naturally, as if you had crossed it as a certain slope like 12/24db for example.