Njord

I have a 97 sunfire and I just finished installing a 10'' CVR with an alpine 400w RMS amp. I also have an amp that I built which outputs 100w RMS x4. (the power of class T )

So my lights are dimming, and I can not run my stereo with out the car running. (voltages dip into the 9v range )

so a cap would be cheap and easy, but a new car bat would be the better solution (from what everyone says) But I'm not running a huge amount of power and I think I could get away with a cap. (5 farads?) Also trying to buy a battery off the internet would be expensive to ship, and I imagine I would have a hard time finding one that would fit my car.

Links to where I could find a fitting battery would be awesome. As I'm not sure what I'm looking for. (Large Cold craking amps?)

What should I do, Battery or cap?

Thanks.

MTT

iTrader: (17)

if you need a cap or extra battery for that little power, you have other things to worry about....done the big three?...existing battery up to snuff?....gains way too high?

Njord

I didn't mean two batteries. I meant a new one. As I the one I have now is one from Canadian tire.

MTT

iTrader: (17)

take it there and have them load test it.

tonez735

iTrader: (1)

Unless you're running a VW beetle with a 20 amp alternator, it sounds like you've got a serious stock wiring issue. You're not running that much power so the alt and battery shouldn't even be coming close to having an issue in my opinion. I know on some new jap cars they only have 10 gauge power at the alt (for example)

I just checked your profile and I'd say that the Sunfire falls into the same category as having a stock wiring issue.

Do the big 3... save your other $$$

Njord

I would do the big 3 but I'm not sure where those wires are on my car. More so the alt to bat, engine to car. I've never done this before.

Sounds like alot of work that I might not be able to do. (Like getting under the car, and finding new connectors that will work with my car)

tonez735

iTrader: (1)

Its not soo bad actually... just replacing power and ground wires... Anyhow, that's clearly the issue in my opinion. You've got 8 gauge power for your stereo but you're lucky if the factory installed 10 gauge for the whole car!!!!!

check out the forums around here and you should find all the info you need regarding the "big 3 swap"

Njord

If I look at the wiring and see that it isn't 10 gauge, what do you think I could get away with? 8? Maybe I'll be lucky and the stock wire will be larger then 10awg. I'll take a look today.

I guess no one would have a picture of the wires I need to replace. I'm just worried about the connectors. I bet they would be difficult to find.

What about when I run the stereo with the car not running and the voltage dipping down to 9v. Wouldn't that be the battery that sucks? Since when the cars not on, its only the wire I put in (8awg) and the car chassis?

MTT

iTrader: (17)

you're trying to avoid doing the big three, not much else will help you unless you do this first, it's easy, pick a day that you dont need the car, have someone helping you that has a car....pull off all the wires running to your battery no matter where they go, go buy some 4awg and make a set of wires the exact same as the ones you took off, add the newly made ones to the originals and put it all back together.......the buddy with the car is so you can run out and buy the wire/connectors that you need once you have them in your hands, you'll know exactly what to get.

tonez735

iTrader: (1)

you might have a battery issue but you should do the big 3 anyhow... 0 gauge if you're doing anything in the future, 4 minimum... everything including the connectors should be easy to get...

With the car not on, you're going to only get between 11 and 12 volts and then the battery will start to drain... I doubt somehow that you're really getting to 9 as the car would never start @ 9 volts.