Best wood to use for box building
500 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 779
Originally posted by JRace:
I'm looking for a wood that can be buffed up real good. So either a veener that I can glue onto mdf (tricky I imagine), mdf with a veener laminate already (then the tricky part is the corners) or something else I have not thought of...
I'm looking for a wood that can be buffed up real good. So either a veener that I can glue onto mdf (tricky I imagine), mdf with a veener laminate already (then the tricky part is the corners) or something else I have not thought of...
[ March 11, 2005, 04:58 PM: Message edited by: hofulstrof ]
If your corners need to be a sharp 90 degrees then I would suggest using a lock mitre. That is what I use when build cabinets that need to have the sharp corners. The joint is very strong so you will have no issues there. If you can, try to get a 1/16" or thicker veneer. It will make your job easier. I know lots of suppliers if you need assistance.
On the otherside, round corners are quite easy to make with solid stock. But since Im not sure what your after I wont go into that.
Stay away from plywood, particle board, chip board ect. MDF/HDF are the best material for cabinets when your on a budget.
On the otherside, round corners are quite easy to make with solid stock. But since Im not sure what your after I wont go into that.
Stay away from plywood, particle board, chip board ect. MDF/HDF are the best material for cabinets when your on a budget.
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 33
One of the worst wood to use is probably the Ranger boards..... some call it MDF also, but definately not good for serious subboxs. that stuff is almost like carboard when chipped... and its softer and more yellow in color then the high grade MDF.
The 3/4" MDF with the laminated Oak or Maples vineer would have better properties.. to avoid energy storage.
[ March 12, 2005, 03:44 PM: Message edited by: JOE91SC ]
The 3/4" MDF with the laminated Oak or Maples vineer would have better properties.. to avoid energy storage.
[ March 12, 2005, 03:44 PM: Message edited by: JOE91SC ]
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,145
I've learned from Home and pro. audio, to use a more expensive wood called "Baltic Birch". Its a little harder to work with then MDF, but its WAY WAY more lightwight, and since its so much more rigid, you can use .75" Baltic birch for an application that would normally call for 1" MDF.
In Pro audio, its used LOTS because its so light. In home audio, its used also, very often for its ridgerity. But in *ultra* high end speakers, Mahogany is commonly used, since it apparently gives off a "warm" sound. I'dealy though, concrete makes a PHENOMINAL box, since there is NO flex WHATSOEVER, but who the heck uses Concrete?
In Pro audio, its used LOTS because its so light. In home audio, its used also, very often for its ridgerity. But in *ultra* high end speakers, Mahogany is commonly used, since it apparently gives off a "warm" sound. I'dealy though, concrete makes a PHENOMINAL box, since there is NO flex WHATSOEVER, but who the heck uses Concrete?
Some companies will say that Mahogany gives the speaker a warm sound because it's the same material Violens are made from. But it's just a marketing ploy. Stick with dense materials. I wouldn't consider Pro audio to be a good referance for materials. Pro equipment needs to be lighter because it's moved around alot. If you look at high end home audio, MDF and HDF are staples for the industry. If you want to use a better material like the Arboron I mentioned then go for it. But for cost reasons, MDF/HDF is best.
