Car audio in home Power Supply Upgrade Help?
#1
Car audio in home Power Supply Upgrade Help?
I know there have been questions asked before regarding setting this up but I'm looking at getting some help regarding the technical aspects of it.
I had a 460W computer PSU powering an Alpine CDA-100 and an old Kenwood 300W 4 channel. Not long after getting it all set up and running I begin adjusting a few things on the amp which then blew my power supply. The power supply will now no longer turn on when any current is being drawn from it. This leads to my questions:
Are there any other alternatives to a computer PSU or a car battery and charger system?
If I run 2 computer PSU can I run all of the yellow wires from both together? I know I can run all the strands from one PSU together, but if I run both PSUs together will this create 24VDC?
If I only run 500W should I get a cap? 500K MF, or even a 1F cap?
I'm looking at running around 800 watts, type R's off a 4 channel, and 2 W1's off a monoblock or 2 channel. As well as the head unit.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I had a 460W computer PSU powering an Alpine CDA-100 and an old Kenwood 300W 4 channel. Not long after getting it all set up and running I begin adjusting a few things on the amp which then blew my power supply. The power supply will now no longer turn on when any current is being drawn from it. This leads to my questions:
Are there any other alternatives to a computer PSU or a car battery and charger system?
If I run 2 computer PSU can I run all of the yellow wires from both together? I know I can run all the strands from one PSU together, but if I run both PSUs together will this create 24VDC?
If I only run 500W should I get a cap? 500K MF, or even a 1F cap?
I'm looking at running around 800 watts, type R's off a 4 channel, and 2 W1's off a monoblock or 2 channel. As well as the head unit.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
#4
Check out an RV shop.
Or a local car audio dealer most should be able to get you one.
They aren't inexpensive.
I have my stuff in the garage for when I'm working, and its all old gear that I still have laying around from previous installs.
Optima, Kinetik, and the like are sealed batteries and don't vent the gas as they're sealed. Which is why you can mount them anywhere.
Or a local car audio dealer most should be able to get you one.
They aren't inexpensive.
I have my stuff in the garage for when I'm working, and its all old gear that I still have laying around from previous installs.
Optima, Kinetik, and the like are sealed batteries and don't vent the gas as they're sealed. Which is why you can mount them anywhere.
#5
another option is to get a converter which converts 120v to 12v, you will need to get one thats rated as the same power as your amp or more, again these are not cheap depending on the power expect to pay roughly $1 per watt
#6
#7
Agreed, I always ask when I'm in a pawn shop if they have one. Most power supplies I have seen top out at 50amps and the voltage is usually adjustable from 11-15v
I saw a Vibe PS, that was quite small and had a 10amp feed and a separate 40amp supply as well
The lousy Pyramid supplies I have seen sold for around $100
I saw a Vibe PS, that was quite small and had a 10amp feed and a separate 40amp supply as well
The lousy Pyramid supplies I have seen sold for around $100
#8
any good places around to get a decent dc power supply? because i really cant seem to find one. i want to set up a an audio shop downstairs in my basement. what components will i need? i want to be able to test large amps and run a full system kind of like a sound board at the audio shops.
#9
And most home amps that run off of 120V run 8ohm drivers and to buy something in the 800-1000W is going to cost alot more then what a PSU or DC power supply would.