John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Long story short, TC4004 amp, PROPERLY bridged as per new instructions direct from MTX, (its simple). JL 5x7's (150wrms 4ohm) in the doors (4 but only using 2 fronts until I put the UP6's in). I bought the JL's NIB supposedly, but used none the less.

I'm guessing around 200 wrms per side from the amp.

Now, to be fair, I was taking them pretty freaking high because I was playing with my new found bridged power

Within 5 seconds of smelling "that" smell, POOF, curls of smoke rolling out the pass. door panel.

So, voice coil burning up perhaps? Will too much power really smoke a voice coil like that? Wiring is 12 gauge to the speakers btw.
I have not had time to pull the panel yet.

Since I have 2 good ones left in the rear doors, I'll hook them up and just pound them a little to see if it is the speakers, or if the amp did this somehow (doubtful). Dont want to burn up the UP6's.

I'll be happy to throw up a pic later for everyone to chuckle at

Cheers

John

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Oh, here is the MTX BRIDGE instructions. if anyone does a search in the future this info may help them.

You will bridge the FRONT channels to drive the LEFT speaker.
Connect both LEFT RCA's to the FRONT L & R inputs.
Connect the LEFT speaker to the FRONT LEFT POSITIVE and FRONT RIGHT NEGATIVE output terminals.

You will bridge the REAR channels to drive the RIGHT speaker.
Connect both RIGHT RCA's to the REAR L & R inputs.
Connect the RIGHT speaker to the REAR LEFT POSITIVE and REAR RIGHT NEGATIVE output terminals.

Also, in bridged mode, each channel is getting 256wrms, so I guess that would do it.

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

Yes that much power will definitely cause smelly speaker syndrome (sss). The voice coils in most speakers of this size are not large at all and they cannot dissipate heat for a prolonged period of time.

MTT

iTrader: (17)

not sure which JL 5x7's you're talking about, but I don't know of a set from them that will handle even half that power, their ZR series will only handle 85.

ZR=85rms
C5=75rms
TR=50rms

....or am I missing something here?

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

No, I was wrong. I was thinking of the UP6 speakers. They take 150. It was a mistake on my part.

When I pull the panel off tonight I will have a look to see which model number they are because now I'd like to know what they really take as well.

Thanks for the correction.

Dukk

Did you have them crossed over at all? Although, ultimately, they will still burn, a higher crossover point will help them take the extra power longer.

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Yes, crossed over at the deck (125) but the amp was on full range, gain around 50% to 60%.

I followed the MTX reps instructions exactly, triple checked before I fired it up (yuk-yuk), but nobody to blame except myself.

If they really are 50 or 75 like the above poster said, then I'm surprised they survived as long as they did.

johnw

iTrader: (4)

Why would you put 200RMS to a speaker rated for less then half of that? And after you are suprised that they blew up? I sugest next time you dont ignore the RATED power of the speakers.

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

Why do people drive a Dodge Viper or Z06 when the speed limit is 100kph??

The seller told me they were 150rms. It was my first purchase towards upgrading, a few months back. I could have sworn I saw a sticker on the bottom of the speaker saying 150rms.

Unfortunatly I had a work emergency and just got home an hour ago at best or they would be pulled by now.

As another poster above pointed out, there is no possible way that 150rms could be right.

I dont recall saying anywhere I was surprised, or attempting to blame anyone except myself.

Thank you for pointing out the "peak"/"max"/"rated"/"music power"/"total power" inflated ratings vs.a true RMS rating, maybe say like cea2006 for amplifiers.

It was obviously a stupid mistake to make and I lost 2 speakers because of it.

Haunz

iTrader: (3)

LOLz.. don't beat yourself up man.. I cook mids like they are eggs..