Playboy

I need some help, im about to throw my entire system in the garbage. And im not joking...

I hooked up my amp after getting it back from warrenty. And it does the same thing as last time, so obviously i have a problem. I get 13v reading when car is off, and 14.3-4 when its running from battery, and from distrobution block. Distrobution block to my capacitor i get good readings, and from cap to amp i get good readings. Last time i used it for about 2hrs total, getting it all tuned up and everything and it went into protect. About 30 seconds later the protect light went out and i get nothing. No power no protect. All 3 40a fuses are blown. So this time i get it all hooked up and 3 days later it does the same thing. All 3 fuses are blown. Last time i replaced the fuses and it smoked pretty badly, so i dont know if i should try and change them again?

So this is my second amp now. Brand new, same model the first one was replaced under warrenty. They said it must have been faulty. I guess not. What could possibly be causing this? In the meantime i have a rockford P3001 that i just had laying around and it works great int he exact same setup. Not once has it cut in or out or even over heated.

us amps MD2 dclass
us amps MD42
2 kicker L7 15"s
Focal Polyglass 5 1/8" v2 components
Nakamitchi 6.5"s for mids

And to top everything off, i just recently purchased the set of focal components off a member of the forums as well, and when they got here they cone is stuck down in the magnet, and wont move!!!...Ive inviested alot of money into everything trying not to cheap out and i get nothing but trouble.

Please help,
Kyle.

zzzzzzz

iTrader: (5)

is one of your wires hitting a neg some where ?

theboy

Check your grounds and redo them!

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

I hope you posted the idiot sticks names that scammed you, totally not cool. I second the check your grounds on your amp. Meter the ground return resistance to see what it is.

SweetnLow91SC

first thing to check is to see if your speaker wire are grounded to the chasis. dissconnect all speaker wires to the amp, and measure all the wires if they are grounded in any way. then measure if they are common with other leads. check the speaker impedance from those wires and see if they're normal.

How did it sound before it went? were you playing the system at real high level ? to blow 3/40amp fuses..... the outputs or the PS are usually toasted.

Playboy

I havent posted there names yet the l7's i bought it was back in Janruary and i didnt get around to using them until may. And for the focals i told the seller id give him one last chance before i took it to a higher level. Hes trying to pin it on me, saying that i broke it and am trying to scam him?...lol not sure why i wouldnt want broken set of focals but.

As for the grounds, thats all i could think of aswell. When the first amp went i had some time to redo everything before i got it back, i did the big 3. And changed the grounding point from inside my trunk (on the spare tire holder peice) to a large body panel in the rear of the car. Sanded, and im using a pheonix gold ground connection and stinger grounding block. All grounded to the body with 0g.

On my multimeter how do i meter ground resistance? ill try that, The weird part is my rockford was using the same grounding block, grounded to the same spot and it worked for over a month. Blasting it all day.

The only difference between when i was using my rockfod p3001 and the us amps md2 is with the Md2 i used my capacitor. Its a audiobahn 3f. I thought this was the problem, but if its giving my the correct output readings how could it be?

Thanks again for the help,
Kyle.

Prolifik

iTrader: (7)

i think u should throw it in the garbage as originally intended


its your ground blowin fuses on the amp

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

That is what I am betting on as well Yuli.

Playboy

Ok so i just measured the ground resistance. When i touch the 2 probes together i get 0.3ohms. I dissconected the negative from my amp, i attached a 14g 10 foot wire that measured 0.4ohms its self to the negative from my amp. Disconected the negative on my battery and tested on the end of the battery connector. I got a reading of 0.4-0.5ohms.

Is that right? Did i do it correctly? i dont think that would be the problem then?

Kyle.

veeman

iTrader: (3)

did you try removing the capacitor, and putting the US amp in. If you say the RF is working fine in the same set up, except for the capacitor...then do the same thing with the US amp(no capacitor). If it is still not working at even a low level, then it's the amp.