god dang battery
04-19-2005, 09:06 AM
#22
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,267
Originally posted by Buffdaddy:
Batteries last and last
Time isnt the issue, its charging.
Go and get your alternator tested, I repeat.
Trust me, I had the same problem with my Impala, with a 5 year old battery.
I got a high output alternator, and with the SAME battery I have never had a problem again, and It gets stored every winter, even.
Rock On!
Batteries last and last
Time isnt the issue, its charging.
Go and get your alternator tested, I repeat.
Trust me, I had the same problem with my Impala, with a 5 year old battery.
I got a high output alternator, and with the SAME battery I have never had a problem again, and It gets stored every winter, even.
Rock On!
04-19-2005, 11:15 AM
#25
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
Whhoooooo boy.
Alright. First, a car battery in the average Albertan car lasts 4 to 5 years. 3 to 4 years in warmer climates like Arizona, or diesel use or big stereo use or other forms of "extreme" use. 2 to 3 years in really heavy use, like some of the competitors around here.
With only a 200w amplifier and your aftermarket HU in your car, the stock battery & alternator are good enough. You say you want to add more amps and things, so yes, it would be a good idea to upgrade to a better technology battery.
To test your system yourself with a minimum of tools and/or knowledge, do the following:
Park car, engine off, all lights & accessories off, remove keys, close doors.
1) If your alternator has a fan on the outside of it, try pushing the fan with your thumb. If you can spin the alternator with your thumb at all, and the belt doesn't turn with it, your belt needs tightening or replacing. Also check to see if it's worn (shiny) or cracked. Replace if necessary.
2) Inspect battery cable connections, if top post, insure they are clean & tight, with no powdery white or gukky blue corrosion on top. Remove, clean & tighten if necessary. If GM side terminals, unscrew, make sure is nice & clean, and make sure the bottom of the connector or cable isn't bulging, or "pregnant" as I like to call it. If they are, they're full of corrosion, cut 'em off and install replacements.
3) Next, with positive hooked up to the battery, and your negative disconnected, stick a test light (or preferrably a multimeter set on amps) between the cable and the negative post on your battery. (Your alarm may go off here, just hit the button on your remote with your third hand
and keep holding - If you have more than 0.05 amps in your meter, after holding for 30 seconds or more, or if the test light lights up for more than 30 seconds, you have an off-key draw that is kiling your battery overnight. Insure that all lights are off, glove box & trunk included (those are the two most common draw causers). If the draw is still there, disconnect/disable everything aftermarket. Stereo, cell phone charger, alarm, etc. If the draw is STILL there then you're gonna need a mechanic's assistance.
3) K, you've inspected your belt, cables, and checked for a draw. Next, to simulate a load test, first make sure you have another car or battery handy to give ya a boost if you fail. Make sure your battery is fully charged, on a multimeter it should read 12.6 minimum, any less and you need charging before you can test. If ya got 12.6 or better, turn on your headlights and wait 15 minutes. Then shut 'em off. If the car doesn't start right up when you try it, you need a new battery. Try starting it, shutting it off, and starting a second time. If your starter sounds slower than normal, you need a battery. A good battery will be able to have the headlights on for over half an hour and still start the car. Insure that the battery has recovered to 12.6 as well, if not, it may just need charging.
That's about it. You never said what happened, you just said your battery is dead. Dead how? IF you hit the key, and it goes "tic tic tic", yes, it could be a dead battery or corrosion. If you hit the key and get just a single "KLIK", your starter may be at fault, or battery, or corrosion. If you hit the key and you get a "rowr... rowr... rowr..." and your headlights are still nice and bright during your load test, you need a starter.
Hope it helps...
Alright. First, a car battery in the average Albertan car lasts 4 to 5 years. 3 to 4 years in warmer climates like Arizona, or diesel use or big stereo use or other forms of "extreme" use. 2 to 3 years in really heavy use, like some of the competitors around here.
With only a 200w amplifier and your aftermarket HU in your car, the stock battery & alternator are good enough. You say you want to add more amps and things, so yes, it would be a good idea to upgrade to a better technology battery.
To test your system yourself with a minimum of tools and/or knowledge, do the following:
Park car, engine off, all lights & accessories off, remove keys, close doors.
1) If your alternator has a fan on the outside of it, try pushing the fan with your thumb. If you can spin the alternator with your thumb at all, and the belt doesn't turn with it, your belt needs tightening or replacing. Also check to see if it's worn (shiny) or cracked. Replace if necessary.
2) Inspect battery cable connections, if top post, insure they are clean & tight, with no powdery white or gukky blue corrosion on top. Remove, clean & tighten if necessary. If GM side terminals, unscrew, make sure is nice & clean, and make sure the bottom of the connector or cable isn't bulging, or "pregnant" as I like to call it. If they are, they're full of corrosion, cut 'em off and install replacements.
3) Next, with positive hooked up to the battery, and your negative disconnected, stick a test light (or preferrably a multimeter set on amps) between the cable and the negative post on your battery. (Your alarm may go off here, just hit the button on your remote with your third hand
and keep holding - If you have more than 0.05 amps in your meter, after holding for 30 seconds or more, or if the test light lights up for more than 30 seconds, you have an off-key draw that is kiling your battery overnight. Insure that all lights are off, glove box & trunk included (those are the two most common draw causers). If the draw is still there, disconnect/disable everything aftermarket. Stereo, cell phone charger, alarm, etc. If the draw is STILL there then you're gonna need a mechanic's assistance.3) K, you've inspected your belt, cables, and checked for a draw. Next, to simulate a load test, first make sure you have another car or battery handy to give ya a boost if you fail. Make sure your battery is fully charged, on a multimeter it should read 12.6 minimum, any less and you need charging before you can test. If ya got 12.6 or better, turn on your headlights and wait 15 minutes. Then shut 'em off. If the car doesn't start right up when you try it, you need a new battery. Try starting it, shutting it off, and starting a second time. If your starter sounds slower than normal, you need a battery. A good battery will be able to have the headlights on for over half an hour and still start the car. Insure that the battery has recovered to 12.6 as well, if not, it may just need charging.
That's about it. You never said what happened, you just said your battery is dead. Dead how? IF you hit the key, and it goes "tic tic tic", yes, it could be a dead battery or corrosion. If you hit the key and get just a single "KLIK", your starter may be at fault, or battery, or corrosion. If you hit the key and you get a "rowr... rowr... rowr..." and your headlights are still nice and bright during your load test, you need a starter.
Hope it helps...
04-19-2005, 11:55 AM
#27
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,423
it goes click, click. and then my friend noticed one time when it was dead that thier was a buzzing coming from some part that i have no idea what it is and i know it was not the the alternator.
and as for the dieing part. first time- i was listening to the stereo setting the the amp up to the proper gain and then it just died on me. then the second time- i was at a friend's house for about an hour, went out to start the car and it was dead. it did the click click thing both time's.
and as for the dieing part. first time- i was listening to the stereo setting the the amp up to the proper gain and then it just died on me. then the second time- i was at a friend's house for about an hour, went out to start the car and it was dead. it did the click click thing both time's.
04-19-2005, 12:10 PM
#28
LOL very bad i used a test tone to set my gain about with 50-60hz. i belive i did this for 10 minutes with the car off cuz i ran the 2 minute track abotu 5 times. The car had a ruff time starting. I have a stock 75AMp alt and thinking to get teh yellow top but dont got enough cash now. Let me know if u get it and how it works out.
04-19-2005, 12:53 PM
#29
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,423
well i know for sure now that it's the battery. no grizz i did not try out the stuff you suggested. i went to the shop i work at and got it tested. and they garented me that it's that battery. so i'll buy either a yellow top or a red top. i thinking im only goign to need a red top.
