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HA! Got the questions...

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Old 08-30-2006, 04:11 PM
  #11  
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ahhh, wut about stinger batterys?? haha. I never ran to dead but I have ran on about 1/2 volume for 5 min (at most) wen I had my old infinty amp but no problems so far . I woulda went with optima battery but I had to support my local audio store cuz they are cool guys.
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Old 08-30-2006, 04:58 PM
  #12  
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Yea, if you draw to much current the voltage will begin to drop. I seen a dc-dc converter once that regulates/boost 12v to 14v or 16v. I forget where I seen it, and just the other day was trying to google it and find one, but with no luck. Ill look again and see if I can find it.
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Old 08-30-2006, 05:04 PM
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This one takes anything down to even 9v! and regulates it to 13.8v but at only 43amps .
http://www.powerstream.com/dc-2171.htm

To bad its $3600, haha. I found a cheap one once made for car audio, but they do exist at least.
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Old 08-30-2006, 05:14 PM
  #14  
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Sweet! If I buy that I can double the price of my vehicle! Haha, actually $100 more than double .
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Old 08-30-2006, 05:44 PM
  #15  
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Using an external DC-DC converter to boost to 14 volts is diminishing returns. They may only be 90% efficient at best. So you may get more power from a low power amp, but a high power amp that is limited by the current supplied by the battery will put out less power with a converter since the system is less efficent and looses more power to heat.
If your amp is rated at 100wpc at 14.4 volts, but only
60wpc at 12 volts, and you want more power, simply get a bigger amp, say that is rated at 150wpc at 14.4volts, and 100wpc at 12 volts. There is no miracle way to get the same output at 12 volts than at 14.4 volts.
One could design an amp with a regulated power supply that keeps the same voltage at the amp rails no matter what the input voltage. But it would basically be an amp designed to put out its rated max power at the lowest input voltage. It would be coasting at higher input voltage.
Why do that if you could use an unregulated supply and get more power at higher voltage!

Last edited by zoomer; 08-30-2006 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 08-30-2006, 05:49 PM
  #16  
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Yea thats true, it isnt practical. especially when you could just get a bigger amp. Some alternators have variable regulators on them. I think at red-line your alt. puts out 70volts or something.
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Old 08-30-2006, 05:59 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Lspade69
ahhh, wut about stinger batterys?? haha. I never ran to dead but I have ran on about 1/2 volume for 5 min (at most) wen I had my old infinty amp but no problems so far . I woulda went with optima battery but I had to support my local audio store cuz they are cool guys.
The Stigner SPV35 is a deep discharge AGM battery, and will be OK.
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Old 08-30-2006, 10:02 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by zoomer
The Stigner SPV35 is a deep discharge AGM battery, and will be OK.
Awesome cuz it costed me a pretty penny or 26 thousand of them. (i think? maby it was in the three hundreds??? haha)
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Old 08-30-2006, 10:04 PM
  #19  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by Lspade69
wow, that is pretty friggen technical. I suppose it is back to bcae1.com to start learnin the equations better so I can calculate what my amp does at 12.3 volts. haha. Thank you a bunch guys.
Just so you know now, it's a never-ending learning curve with this stuff....

For the record, if you don't mind spending a lot of cash, you can set up a separate electrical system for your audio system. Using smaller 8 volt industrial or farm batteries wired in pairs, and alternators running at 17 or 18volts dedicated to them alone, you can have all the power you can afford.....

Unless you are planning on entering some heavy duty competition, it would be a bit much for a daily driver....but it can be done....

HTH
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Old 08-30-2006, 10:23 PM
  #20  
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Thats cool, I didnt know about those 8volts. I do have a dead ac compressor holding a spot for anothe alt. haha. But it still is a temp car (*****) until im done school, so im not going to put too much work into it. Cant wait for a solid car!
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