Headlight question
10-12-2004, 03:54 PM
#11
500 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 870
I should have mentioned that was tested without the headlights on which would make a bit of a difference im guessing? I will test it out how you guys are mentioning. It isnt a big deal really i just was wondering if there was a way to keep them bright all the time
10-12-2004, 07:11 PM
#12
The headlights being on might pull the voltage down a bit but what I'm trying to find out is the difference between warm idling voltage and higher RPM voltage to see if it's just the higher voltage that's causing them to be brighter.
If that's the case then at idle they're not really dim but just seem that way because they get brighter if the voltage goes up substantially above idle.
If this is the case there is a solution. Read Dukk's original post. He gave you three ways.
If that's the case then at idle they're not really dim but just seem that way because they get brighter if the voltage goes up substantially above idle.
If this is the case there is a solution. Read Dukk's original post. He gave you three ways.
10-12-2004, 07:39 PM
#13
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 952
IMO considering a system with that power draw(all other or minimal vehicle electrical on), in addition to the car's draw, will have effect on the vehicle's voltage regulator.
And considering that factory wiring is as um,.. the thinnest it can be and of minimal copper content(CRRRAAP)there will be some significant drain visible.
I'd suggest a\removal of A/C \addition of a dedicated charging system, using a second alternator and battery to drive the system. You are obviously using high voltage stiffening caps, right?
And considering that factory wiring is as um,.. the thinnest it can be and of minimal copper content(CRRRAAP)there will be some significant drain visible.
I'd suggest a\removal of A/C \addition of a dedicated charging system, using a second alternator and battery to drive the system. You are obviously using high voltage stiffening caps, right?
10-12-2004, 07:55 PM
#14
Originally posted by Eli47:
IMO considering a system with that power draw(all other or minimal vehicle electrical on), in addition to the car's draw, will have effect on the vehicle's voltage regulator.
And considering that factory wiring is as um,.. the thinnest it can be and of minimal copper content(CRRRAAP)there will be some significant drain visible.
I'd suggest a\removal of A/C \addition of a dedicated charging system, using a second alternator and battery to drive the system. You are obviously using high voltage stiffening caps, right?
IMO considering a system with that power draw(all other or minimal vehicle electrical on), in addition to the car's draw, will have effect on the vehicle's voltage regulator.
And considering that factory wiring is as um,.. the thinnest it can be and of minimal copper content(CRRRAAP)there will be some significant drain visible.
I'd suggest a\removal of A/C \addition of a dedicated charging system, using a second alternator and battery to drive the system. You are obviously using high voltage stiffening caps, right?
And um, he said the dimming was there without the gear turned on also.
Scarlemthug, why didn't you think to add some stiffening caps. They are the cure to all electrical problems. Better yet, buy chrome ones
because they work twice as good.
10-12-2004, 11:42 PM
#17
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 718
Originally posted by Haunz:
3-4 1f caps would probably help... if you can find em cheap it would be a good option... paying 800+ tax dosen't sound too good to me though... [img]graemlins/puke.gif[/img]
3-4 1f caps would probably help... if you can find em cheap it would be a good option... paying 800+ tax dosen't sound too good to me though... [img]graemlins/puke.gif[/img]
unfortunately, i think it's like 0.5 F of capaciatance for every 250 W of power to ensure that there will be no interruption.
but hey, you can either get 5 cheap 1F caps from a liquidation place or buy some of the new 5F caps that are out (i think stinger has one...) otherwise, deal with the dimmage.
10-13-2004, 01:53 AM
#18
500 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 870
Caps are definitely not the answer to this problem. Like i posted above there have been poitns where I have had 0 amps in my car and the headlights were still dimmer at idle. I could use a cap but i dont find it necessary as I havent had any shut downs or anything due to low voltage.
