Help me finish my system
Help me finish my system
Still fairly new to all this. This would be my first system I built and installed myself. I hope I didn't waste my money, so here it goes...
My Current system:
Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-4300UB - built in MOSFET amp 14 watts RMS 4 channel
Front Pair - 5 - 1/4" Alpine Type-S, SPS-510 55 watts RMS 4 ohms @ 80 Hz
Back Pair - 6 - 1/2" Alpine Type-S, SPE-6000 60 watts RMS 4 ohms @ 80 Hz
Sub - Kicker 10" Comp, Single-Voice-Coil w/ enclosure - HxWxD 13'3/4x 21'3/4x 4'3/4, 150 watts RMS, 4 ohms, set to 80hz
Amp- Kicker DX 250.1 - 250 watts Mono, 1 channel, 2ohms or 140 watts, 1 channel, 4 ohms. set to 80hz
Amp Wire Kit- Soundquest SQ300XS SL series
What I should get:
Should I pick up this ( ) to feed my speakers? 14 RMS coming from my head unit just doesn't seem like enough. The sound quality drops when I turn my system up to 25 or so.
and another 300 watt Soundquest Wiring kit
Questions:
If I were to add that extra amp to feed my 4 speakers, is that possible with my head unit? There is a rear output for my subwoofer and an extra set of outputs for the fronts. Would that front output work for the amp that were to feed my 4 speakers?
Was it a bad idea to buy an amp that is under powering to the subwoofer? I prefer to keep the amp and subwoofer @ 150 watts, but how to do that I have no idea. If you can, how can it be done? I haven't run into any clipping or interfering thus far, even at max power on my head unit, or rather, what is bearable for my ears.
How do I know that the amp is set to 1 channel @ 250 watts, or is it automated?
and
What do you think of my system so far? It's in a 98 Jeep Wrangler. Sub is down firing.
My Current system:
Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-4300UB - built in MOSFET amp 14 watts RMS 4 channel
Front Pair - 5 - 1/4" Alpine Type-S, SPS-510 55 watts RMS 4 ohms @ 80 Hz
Back Pair - 6 - 1/2" Alpine Type-S, SPE-6000 60 watts RMS 4 ohms @ 80 Hz
Sub - Kicker 10" Comp, Single-Voice-Coil w/ enclosure - HxWxD 13'3/4x 21'3/4x 4'3/4, 150 watts RMS, 4 ohms, set to 80hz
Amp- Kicker DX 250.1 - 250 watts Mono, 1 channel, 2ohms or 140 watts, 1 channel, 4 ohms. set to 80hz
Amp Wire Kit- Soundquest SQ300XS SL series
What I should get:
Should I pick up this ( ) to feed my speakers? 14 RMS coming from my head unit just doesn't seem like enough. The sound quality drops when I turn my system up to 25 or so.
and another 300 watt Soundquest Wiring kit
Questions:
If I were to add that extra amp to feed my 4 speakers, is that possible with my head unit? There is a rear output for my subwoofer and an extra set of outputs for the fronts. Would that front output work for the amp that were to feed my 4 speakers?
Was it a bad idea to buy an amp that is under powering to the subwoofer? I prefer to keep the amp and subwoofer @ 150 watts, but how to do that I have no idea. If you can, how can it be done? I haven't run into any clipping or interfering thus far, even at max power on my head unit, or rather, what is bearable for my ears.
How do I know that the amp is set to 1 channel @ 250 watts, or is it automated?
and
What do you think of my system so far? It's in a 98 Jeep Wrangler. Sub is down firing.
Last edited by ztrob21; Oct 20, 2013 at 04:52 PM.
The amp is a good idea. If your head unit has front and rear outs then see if the 4 channel amp has a subwoofer out. You just won't have subwoofer controls (chances are you don't have that now). Otherwise you need to upgrade to a deck with front/rear/sub outputs.
You can't really keep your amp set to a certain power level. Maxing out the gain of an amp is a great way to blow your sub. The sub/amp are not matched well if you want a decent amount of bass. I generally choose a amp that has 30% more power than the sub is rated at. That way you can keep the amps gain down and out of distortion.
You ask what everyone thinks of your system so far, it doesn't mater what anyone thinks of your system other than you. I really like wranglers though, one of my favorite vehicles that I've owned.
You can't really keep your amp set to a certain power level. Maxing out the gain of an amp is a great way to blow your sub. The sub/amp are not matched well if you want a decent amount of bass. I generally choose a amp that has 30% more power than the sub is rated at. That way you can keep the amps gain down and out of distortion.
You ask what everyone thinks of your system so far, it doesn't mater what anyone thinks of your system other than you. I really like wranglers though, one of my favorite vehicles that I've owned.
Last edited by VWdude; Oct 20, 2013 at 09:18 PM.
The head unit has front and rear/subwoofer outputs. Currently using the rear/subwoofer output and if I were to get this Alpine amp it would go into the front outputs, right?
I can control my subwoofer, but it's fixed to 80 Hz because of the limitations of the amp. I can adjust the bass level from -6 to +6 though. I'm assuming the higher you set the control, the more watts your putting into the sub. It's currently set at +3.
The gain on the amp is set to about 3/5ths of it's max and after about two weeks of having the system I haven't hit any clipping or distortion.
Anyways, so if the amp is at 250 RMS and the RMS is at 150 watts on the sub, is the output gain at 60% a safe call? My thinking is, 60% of 250 watts is 150 watts so I'm matching up the wattage on the amp to the RMS on the sub. Or is that completely wrong? Does jacking up the output control to it's max even mean it's putting out 250 watts?
I can control my subwoofer, but it's fixed to 80 Hz because of the limitations of the amp. I can adjust the bass level from -6 to +6 though. I'm assuming the higher you set the control, the more watts your putting into the sub. It's currently set at +3.
The gain on the amp is set to about 3/5ths of it's max and after about two weeks of having the system I haven't hit any clipping or distortion.
Anyways, so if the amp is at 250 RMS and the RMS is at 150 watts on the sub, is the output gain at 60% a safe call? My thinking is, 60% of 250 watts is 150 watts so I'm matching up the wattage on the amp to the RMS on the sub. Or is that completely wrong? Does jacking up the output control to it's max even mean it's putting out 250 watts?
Last edited by ztrob21; Oct 21, 2013 at 01:56 AM.
well first of all, that amp is 140 watts RMS at 4 ohms, unless you are getting a new amp. So 60% is technically MUCH less than the 150 that your sub "needs".
secondly, you admit that this is new stuff for you, how do you know if your sub is distorting? most people have no clue that they are getting a clipped signal to their subs/speakers.
if you want you fading front/rear from your deck then you need to connect the 4 channel to front AND rear outputs from the deck. Theres no way for your deck to distinguish between front and rear without connecting them accordingly.
Adjusting "bass" from the deck is different than adjusting "subwoofer" level. higher level head units will have a separate control for the sub. raising the bass level will increase the lower frequencies of the output, probably adding distortion. I like to keep those settings flat (at 0).
secondly, you admit that this is new stuff for you, how do you know if your sub is distorting? most people have no clue that they are getting a clipped signal to their subs/speakers.
if you want you fading front/rear from your deck then you need to connect the 4 channel to front AND rear outputs from the deck. Theres no way for your deck to distinguish between front and rear without connecting them accordingly.
Adjusting "bass" from the deck is different than adjusting "subwoofer" level. higher level head units will have a separate control for the sub. raising the bass level will increase the lower frequencies of the output, probably adding distortion. I like to keep those settings flat (at 0).
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