How big of an alternator do I need for my car?
11-17-2004, 01:41 AM
#12
50 Watt CAFz'r
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 68
Father Yuli , lol but why? its better (for me) to have a 15F nice looking box that matches all my amps then 3 ugly looking caps...ya gotta remember 1,000,000 uf's for every 1000W's? and also would ya rather no Caps? then wouldent I be in a more screwed up situation?
Brad [img]smile.gif[/img]
Brad [img]smile.gif[/img]
11-17-2004, 05:18 AM
#14
Sell the cap and buy a bigger alt and battery.
Go with at least a 140a hot rated alt that has a good reading at idle also.
Upgrade the big three with as big of wire as you can afford. I would use 1/0 in your application.
And yes you do need to replace the wire between your alt and battery.
Go with at least a 140a hot rated alt that has a good reading at idle also.
Upgrade the big three with as big of wire as you can afford. I would use 1/0 in your application.
And yes you do need to replace the wire between your alt and battery.
11-17-2004, 11:41 AM
#15
50 Watt CAFz'r
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 68
Hardwrkr, hmm...I dont get? So caps are a no no? I really dont want my lights dimming like crazy...wont look too good...Im going to the stereo comps with this sytem its just something to listen too while crusin (if you can believe me 
I just bought a CS-130 and hes ripping out the guts and putting in a heavy duty coil so itll be around 90-110 idle and 180 max and am gonna be Getting a nice battery (i got the Crappy tire highest eliminator but i guess these arnt good )
Father Yuli, I wasent trying to be a smart azz in my post...i just thought caps = good, cause I thought it helped improve system performance by providing energy for the dynamic peaks of music...so techniquly it wouldent be charging every time i start up my car...itll stay charged (thank God or id be selling that thing lol)
please help me with this confusion I have
thanX
Brad [img]smile.gif[/img]
EDIT: Spelling sucks
[ November 17, 2004, 12:42 PM: Message edited by: KillerX ]
I just bought a CS-130 and hes ripping out the guts and putting in a heavy duty coil so itll be around 90-110 idle and 180 max and am gonna be Getting a nice battery (i got the Crappy tire highest eliminator but i guess these arnt good ) Father Yuli, I wasent trying to be a smart azz in my post...i just thought caps = good, cause I thought it helped improve system performance by providing energy for the dynamic peaks of music...so techniquly it wouldent be charging every time i start up my car...itll stay charged (thank God or id be selling that thing lol)
please help me with this confusion I have
thanX
Brad [img]smile.gif[/img]
EDIT: Spelling sucks
[ November 17, 2004, 12:42 PM: Message edited by: KillerX ]
11-17-2004, 12:03 PM
#16
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
Replace the 15f cap with just a 1 or 2f. More just isn't necessary at your wattage.
Replace/upgrade cabling with welding cable. 4ga to alt, 2 ga grounds. At your wattage, you don't really need bigger, but if you plan on adding more amplification at a later date, then ya, go with 2/0 or something.
Low resistance battery in the front and rear of the vehicle. Isolate through an RV switch if desired, not an isolater (they have about a 1.0 voltage drop through them, not suitable for stereo).
Stock alternator should be fine at that wattage if you've done all the above. Myself, I'm running a stock 105 amp CS130D, albeit with a smaller pulley, and my total wattage exceeds 1800w.
I am, however, right at the "borderline". If I were to add any more wattage, I'd need a larger alternator. But I'd probably just add a second one, rather than get a HO one, it'd be cheaper to just add a second one.
Replace/upgrade cabling with welding cable. 4ga to alt, 2 ga grounds. At your wattage, you don't really need bigger, but if you plan on adding more amplification at a later date, then ya, go with 2/0 or something.
Low resistance battery in the front and rear of the vehicle. Isolate through an RV switch if desired, not an isolater (they have about a 1.0 voltage drop through them, not suitable for stereo).
Stock alternator should be fine at that wattage if you've done all the above. Myself, I'm running a stock 105 amp CS130D, albeit with a smaller pulley, and my total wattage exceeds 1800w.
I am, however, right at the "borderline". If I were to add any more wattage, I'd need a larger alternator. But I'd probably just add a second one, rather than get a HO one, it'd be cheaper to just add a second one.
11-17-2004, 12:13 PM
#17
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Join Date: Sep 2004
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GrizZz, well you make me feel more better about the alternator becuase that was the main thing i was worried about...I donno about switching the 15 F though...I just hate the looks of 3 caps (pg told me id need 3 for sure) plus they look soo nice with my amps
But if i keep the 15F is it rerally gonna be that much of a strain on my alt/bat? the main thing im worried about is looks...and the look of 3 caps in a Ferrari 355 spider wont look too sheek
ThanX
But if i keep the 15F is it rerally gonna be that much of a strain on my alt/bat? the main thing im worried about is looks...and the look of 3 caps in a Ferrari 355 spider wont look too sheek
ThanX
11-17-2004, 12:27 PM
#18
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,024
i dont think you would NEED 3 caps for sure...
and heres a good thread on the big 3 upgrade
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ult...c;f=5;t=007801
[ November 17, 2004, 01:29 PM: Message edited by: coulter ]
and heres a good thread on the big 3 upgrade
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ult...c;f=5;t=007801
[ November 17, 2004, 01:29 PM: Message edited by: coulter ]
11-17-2004, 12:52 PM
#19
What are you talking about 3 caps man?
A cap stores a small amount of energy before it gets to your amps.
So basically you have your alt charging to put in your batt, and then some to put in the stupid cap. Like Yuli said it's just going to put more strain on your elec system.
The whole idea of caps are a marketing ploy if anything. I mean no offense but you don't have too much of an idea what they do, but you think you need them, why? Because the company told you that you did.
Just get a bigger alt, make sure you have a good batt, and good wiring and you'll be fine.
A cap stores a small amount of energy before it gets to your amps.
So basically you have your alt charging to put in your batt, and then some to put in the stupid cap. Like Yuli said it's just going to put more strain on your elec system.
The whole idea of caps are a marketing ploy if anything. I mean no offense but you don't have too much of an idea what they do, but you think you need them, why? Because the company told you that you did.
Just get a bigger alt, make sure you have a good batt, and good wiring and you'll be fine.
11-17-2004, 01:24 PM
#20
50 Watt CAFz'r
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Join Date: Sep 2004
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JohnnyToronto, well dude thats why i said i was confused...ok well theres a problem somewhere then maybe a 100 ant gonna do... i put the 1200.1 in my lumina (with an upgraded alt becuase i used to have a systnm in there) so it getting around the same i would be getting in my fiero around 90- 100 and had 1 cap pluged in...played 2 xmaxs, pretty good and the lights were dimming like a ****... can ya explain whats going on? now i bet ya a couple bux if i stick my 15f it ant gonna dim...so whats up? is it the wiring? the cap? the bat?
Im getting alot of mixed answers some people on other forms say keep the 15F cuz its not gonna use all of it but hey at least its there, and some other people saying screw caps they dont do crap and get a alt and a batt?
Brad [img]smile.gif[/img]
Im getting alot of mixed answers some people on other forms say keep the 15F cuz its not gonna use all of it but hey at least its there, and some other people saying screw caps they dont do crap and get a alt and a batt?
Brad [img]smile.gif[/img]
