Is this how I wire amp/sub (pic included)
Ok, I just bought an amp/sub and the required wiring kit and
wires. Here's what I have:
- Alpine MRP-M350 amp
- Alpine SWR-1041D Type R 10" DVC sub
- 4AWG amp wiring kit (20ft positive, 3ft negative)
- 40AMP fuse (and holder)
- Remote turn on wire
- Speaker wires (4 piece, at 4ft each)
- 8AWG positive/negative cable (4ft each)
- Zip ties and
Since my amp won't take a 4AWG power cable, it will need an
8AWG, so I will need to solder the 4AWG power cable that comes
from the battery, to an 8AWG cable which will then hookup to the
amp.
I could also use a capacitor or distribution block but I've chosen
not to at this point.
Here's the diagram. If anything is wrong in the picture, let me know
And yes, I did draw this in PS (took me like an hr), and yes I do
have too much time on my hands

[ July 30, 2003, 09:41 PM: Message edited by: Gonad ]
wires. Here's what I have:
- Alpine MRP-M350 amp
- Alpine SWR-1041D Type R 10" DVC sub
- 4AWG amp wiring kit (20ft positive, 3ft negative)
- 40AMP fuse (and holder)
- Remote turn on wire
- Speaker wires (4 piece, at 4ft each)
- 8AWG positive/negative cable (4ft each)
- Zip ties and
Since my amp won't take a 4AWG power cable, it will need an
8AWG, so I will need to solder the 4AWG power cable that comes
from the battery, to an 8AWG cable which will then hookup to the
amp.
I could also use a capacitor or distribution block but I've chosen
not to at this point.
Here's the diagram. If anything is wrong in the picture, let me know
And yes, I did draw this in PS (took me like an hr), and yes I do
have too much time on my hands

[ July 30, 2003, 09:41 PM: Message edited by: Gonad ]
Or what you could do is you could have 4AWG go into one side of the Fuse holder and the 8 awg out the other. That would save you from soldering. Just you would need a fuse holder that handles both 4 and 8 AWG. Make sure that the fuse you use - regardless of how you wire it, will be small enough to protect the 8 AWG.
One thing also missing on the diagram is the remote turn on from the deck. You'll need that if you want the deck to turn the amp on
[ July 31, 2003, 11:51 AM: Message edited by: maltesechicken ]
One thing also missing on the diagram is the remote turn on from the deck. You'll need that if you want the deck to turn the amp on

[ July 31, 2003, 11:51 AM: Message edited by: maltesechicken ]
You can probably use 4 gauge right to the amp, although it's not necessary. Just strip the wire 2cm, untwist the end, and separate it into 2 or 3 sections. Cut one or two of them until you have a small part of wire sticking out about the size of 8 ga wire. Cut it back about half cm to 1cm, twist it, and then feed it into the terminal.
Well I edited the diagram above. I think I will
just get a distribution block so it looks cleaner
and since I plan on gettin another amp later on
to power my other speakers.
As for the power cable, I will just leave the
4AWG running from trunk to battery and use the
8AWG in the trunk to the amp and such.
just get a distribution block so it looks cleaner
and since I plan on gettin another amp later on
to power my other speakers.
As for the power cable, I will just leave the
4AWG running from trunk to battery and use the
8AWG in the trunk to the amp and such.
whatever you decide to use(guage) for power match it or better for the ground. don't with 8 on ground if your pwr is 4 . go 4 on both or 4 on pwr and 1 on grnd. always equal or better the grnd. including all the factory grnds.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Hardcore Rock Superstar
Off-topic Chat
18
Jun 19, 2004 11:48 AM



