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Old 10-05-2006, 02:56 PM
  #11  
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chances are you will get a lil more voltage then that.... depends on the HU and speakers it runs.....

really if you want high voltage into your amps, that is the simplest and IMO best way to do it.......


if your amps max out at 4v with the gain turned down you probably want the LOC.....
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Old 10-05-2006, 07:20 PM
  #12  
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It's an Eclipse 3640.... I figure it would be able to handle 6v... shouldn't it?

btw... would anyone happen to know what sort of power I'd get if I bridged the 2 rear channels to 4Ohms?
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Old 10-05-2006, 07:24 PM
  #13  
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just installed that PAC OEM-2 and it sounds waay better than the crappy radioshack one I bought to test. I had to turn the gain down on the amp and leave the pots on the LOC around the middle so the bass wouldn't be overpowering my stock speakers.
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Old 10-05-2006, 08:55 PM
  #14  
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dukk i've tried what your saying many years ago with no success
first the sheild on the inputs of the amp are connected to each other
so it will send you deck into protection
second the outputs on your deck run at a + and - voltage
and i found that just using the positive speaker wire to the center pin and grounding the sheild to chassis gound resulted in a turn on pop
from the voltage output on the speaker terminal
im sure a 1:1 transformer would fix that
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Old 10-06-2006, 02:30 AM
  #15  
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^ makes sense...

Ive never had a problem but I never ran speakers at the same time... decks didn't mind...

if neg RCAs are common on a 2ch stereo amp you don't want voltage on the neg line anyway..... so Iam not sure a line out converter would be the best way to go either !
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Old 10-06-2006, 07:34 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Haunz
^ makes sense...

Ive never had a problem but I never ran speakers at the same time... decks didn't mind...

if neg RCAs are common on a 2ch stereo amp you don't want voltage on the neg line anyway..... so Iam not sure a line out converter would be the best way to go either !
did I say that PAC OEM-2 is designed to take care of the common ground issue as well... check out the manual here http://www.pac-audio.com/instructions/OEM-2.pdf

I think for the money this is a great product. I only paid about $40 CDN shipped from states. I mean of course the $200 one would probably be better but if this one works great at about 5 times less in price then why not. for good product
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Old 10-06-2006, 07:59 AM
  #17  
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Good to hear... and $40 isn't too hard to much of a dent in the wallet either!

So.... where can I pick up one of these bad boys?

Also, I just checked their site and they don't have a 4 channel version... does that sound right?
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Old 10-06-2006, 08:14 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by JordyO
Good to hear... and $40 isn't too hard to much of a dent in the wallet either!

So.... where can I pick up one of these bad boys?

Also, I just checked their site and they don't have a 4 channel version... does that sound right?
I got it from ebay, about $25 US + $10 shipping. Crutchfield sells them too for $30 and you get their great warranty and tech support. OEM-2 is the 4ch version. If you look at the manual you'll see that every hook up scenario covers all 4 speakers. It also has a remote turn on converter that takes at least 0.8v and converts into 12V and 2A signal if your amplifiers require 12V remote turn on. Takes care of all the turn on pops too with a 1-2 sec delay.
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Old 10-06-2006, 10:19 AM
  #19  
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I bought my LOC at Best Buy. 39.95 My factory deck has balanced outputs, so going directly to RCA's caused big noise. The name on it is Excell and looks like a copy of the PAC. 4 channel active, speaker or line in, with or without gounds, fully adjustable, remote turn on, or delay turn on. RCA outputs or wired line level out.
The recomendations i got on here was to buy an audiocontrol unit (for 300+), but I already had crossovers. 39.95 and roll of electrical tape fixed me up in about an hour. Or you can order online to save a buck and wait 2 weeks.
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Old 10-06-2006, 12:46 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by JordyO
It's an Eclipse 3640.... I figure it would be able to handle 6v... shouldn't it?

btw... would anyone happen to know what sort of power I'd get if I bridged the 2 rear channels to 4Ohms?
I have a 3620, which I believe is the two channel version of the 3640.

The 3620 puts out 60W x 2 @ 2 ohms so I guess ~120W x 1 @ 4 ohms.
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