Need info on older subs and amp
10-06-2006, 09:42 PM
#1
0 Watt CAFz'r
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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Need info on older subs and amp
Ok so ive recently aquired some really old car audio, and i figured before i go out and by some good stuff i would try these. The problem is that they didnt come with any manuels or anything so i was wondering if anyone on here new any thing about them.
First i got a Pioneer GM-1000 Amp
This things has all sorts of crazy imputs and out puts and some prongs i have no idea what for..... like there little squares and circles. than the power is a bigger circle and square. does any one know what each thing is, cause i can make custom adapters but i need to know what each thing is for.
Next is 2 MTX Terminator subs. I have no idea on power imput and what not and i cant really find anything on them
THX
First i got a Pioneer GM-1000 Amp
This things has all sorts of crazy imputs and out puts and some prongs i have no idea what for..... like there little squares and circles. than the power is a bigger circle and square. does any one know what each thing is, cause i can make custom adapters but i need to know what each thing is for.
Next is 2 MTX Terminator subs. I have no idea on power imput and what not and i cant really find anything on them
THX
10-06-2006, 09:58 PM
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 359
for the pioneer amp, it probably has some sort of plug for the power and speaker terminals. Meaning, you tighten the wires on the plug, then plug it into the amp. The circles and squares are prob only there so that you can't plug it in backwards by mistake.
10-06-2006, 09:59 PM
#3
The GM1000 is 60w rms x 2 into 4 ohms. It is bridgeable and will run about the 180w rms x 1 area into 4 ohms. It is not stable to 2 ohm mono. It is stable to 2 ohm stereo and runs around the 90w rms x 2 mark. Been a long time and going from memory here but they were a OK amp in their day. This model of amp did use molex plugs for the speaker level outputs, the main power ground connections and if necessary the speaker level inputs. You can always take the amp apart and solder the wires directly to the circuit board if you cannot make the right connector. The wires were preterminated in the molex, they were not a plug in and screw down type of molex. IIRC, there was a 30 amp fuse on the main power line as well. Chances of finding these connectors, slim to none, these amps are from about 1989-1990.
The sub. I can't be 100% on it but 125 w rms single 4 ohm. Liked a 1.5 cubic foot ported box or a smaller sealed box of .75 to 1.25 cubic feet.
Some of the other geriatrics masquerading as members here on the site may be able to add some more info as well.
The sub. I can't be 100% on it but 125 w rms single 4 ohm. Liked a 1.5 cubic foot ported box or a smaller sealed box of .75 to 1.25 cubic feet.
Some of the other geriatrics masquerading as members here on the site may be able to add some more info as well.
Last edited by MR2NR; 10-07-2006 at 01:05 PM.
10-06-2006, 11:58 PM
#4
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So since i dont know that much about this stuff... any idea which is positive square or circle and if i briged them would i be able to run both the subs or even just one??
and since it dosnt have a seperate circut for the auto on/off how would i wire that up?
thx
and since it dosnt have a seperate circut for the auto on/off how would i wire that up?
thx
Last edited by thetallone; 10-07-2006 at 12:02 AM.
10-07-2006, 12:30 AM
#5
Got a model # on the sub, from the back of the magnet, I might have specs for it on Bassbox. eBay.ca: Pioneer GM-1000 Car Amplifier (item 320034507580 end time 09-Oct-06 20:27:52 EDT)
One of the amps I found on Ebay, in case you need another one.
One of the amps I found on Ebay, in case you need another one.
Last edited by 2 8's AKA Jeepbeats; 10-07-2006 at 12:35 AM.
10-07-2006, 09:54 AM
#6
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The three position connector closest to the RCAs does remote on. Back at that time Pioneer had an IGN lead and a REM lead in that molex. 90% of the time both were just hooked together to the remote lead from the deck.
10-07-2006, 09:58 AM
#7
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Oh and for the connections on the molex, I can't remember which is which exactly but here's what you do.
For the Power plug, pull out the fuse and use a multimeter to find which of the pins in the power plug has continuity to one side of the fuse socket. That will be BATT and the other pin GND.
For the Speaker plug, I would bet it goes L+, L-, R+, R-. Take a speaker and probe the pins with the amp hooked up. You'll get sound for left, right, and bridged combinations.
For the Power plug, pull out the fuse and use a multimeter to find which of the pins in the power plug has continuity to one side of the fuse socket. That will be BATT and the other pin GND.
For the Speaker plug, I would bet it goes L+, L-, R+, R-. Take a speaker and probe the pins with the amp hooked up. You'll get sound for left, right, and bridged combinations.
10-07-2006, 02:42 PM
#8
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I think this is the model number. 10RD775. the 0 might be an O to i cant really tell.
10-07-2006, 04:45 PM
#9
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Posts: 197
I think antique road show is coming your way you should see how much you can get at auction . kiddin have fun..
