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Need some friendly advice or opinions!!!!

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Old 02-13-2011, 11:54 PM
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Need some friendly advice or opinions!!!!

Hi guys I am new to CCA and I am looking for some friendly advice and some opinions from the more experienced audiophiles. I am slowly putting a system into my 1996 Chevy Silverado Ext. cab.
This is what I have so far for gear:
HU: Kenwood MP-345U > installed
Door panel: JBL GTO628 6.5" > installed
Rear pillars: JL Audio C2-400x 4"> not installed (still stock)
Subs x2: RE Audio REX10D4 10" not installed

I will be installing my subs into a duel 10" custom enclosure made to fit under my rear seat with 1.7cuft. and filled with poly-fill.

amp for door's & pillars: Kicker KX300.4 not installed

Amp for subs ????? I have a few in mind but i would like a few opinions of what i have listed below? keeping in mind I am on a very limited budget looking for under $200.

1: Orion Cobalt CO500.1 (CO5001) @ $114.99
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17257_Orion-Cobalt-CO500.1-CO5001.html

2: Crunch PZT1500.1 @ $149.99
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23679_Crunch-PZT1500.1.html

3: Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-1 @ $159.99
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9852_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P300-1.html

4: Boston Acoustics GTA-400M @ $169.99
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20001_Boston-Acoustics-GTA-400M.html

5: RE Audio DTS-800.1 @ $169.99
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32464_RE-Audio-DTS-800.1.html

6: JL Audio J2 250.1 (J2250.1)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_26848_JL-Audio-J2-250.1-J2250.1.html
Well thanks in advance for your time and opinions...
Cheers, Loke

Last edited by loketar; 02-14-2011 at 03:01 AM. Reason: adding some links to the Amps...
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Old 02-14-2011, 01:14 AM
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I ran and older p300 back when I first got into this stuff. It did the job.
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Old 02-14-2011, 02:39 AM
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hi ya Fresh1, thanks for the reply.

so what does everyone else think??
Cheers, Loke
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:26 AM
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those newer RE amps are supposed to be very good for the money, supposedly they will do close to rated in real world and for the price, its worth it imo.
as for the rest of your setup, it looks liek your on your way.
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Old 02-14-2011, 09:18 AM
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Since u say u new into this from my own f%&k ups in the past and thinking everybody gave out right answers .... make sure the power u want from the amp u pick is at the right final load.. Nothing like ure first setup being a ZX 1500.1 that u can only use half of lolol
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:43 AM
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thanks alot guys
@>AyZe : I am not sure what u are saying here? If I match up the subs(RE Audio REX10D4 10" x2) with the Amp: (RE Audio DTS-800.1) Is this a good match and will i get all the power from the amp? How is the best way to wire this up?
thanks again..

Loke
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by loketar
thanks alot guys
@>AyZe : I am not sure what u are saying here? If I match up the subs(RE Audio REX10D4 10" x2) with the Amp: (RE Audio DTS-800.1) Is this a good match and will i get all the power from the amp? How is the best way to wire this up?
thanks again..

Loke
Positives to positives negatives to negatives will give you a 1ohm load which is fairly ideal.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Dilatory
Positives to positives negatives to negatives will give you a 1ohm load which is fairly ideal.
exactly, "said" amp does 1000rms @ 4 ohm - 2000 rms @ 2 ohm - 4000 @ 1 ohm etc etc not all amps can be wired down to 1 ohm. thus u have to go back up to 4 ohm(dual 4ohm i assume from the "D4") and u get 1/4 the power u assumed wen u bought the piece.And if u were like me and trusted the guys at the shop u bought from u learn alittle and say wat in teh fck!

but u want to find the power u want @ 1ohm(is ideal) or 4 ohm.
So if any of the amps in your list cant be wired down to 1 ohm i wouldnt even consider them.
i might not be explaining this clearly i apologize but i just got up lol.
HAS ABOSOLUTLY NOTHING TO DO WITH BRANDs.

off to work now

Last edited by AyZe; 02-15-2011 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:52 PM
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ok, I think i am following you so far. And yes they are DVC 4 ohm. So I have 2 amps I am really thinking about here. I will include the specs for the subs(that came today, wohoo!!!) and the amps (I have not ordered yet). PLease advise as to which one matches up the best and will give me the most power to both subs....
thanks in advance.
Cheers, Loke
Sub Specs:
RE Audio REX10D4
Product Features:

* 10" Dual 4 ohm REX Series Subwoofer
* Power Handling:
o RMS: 175 watts
* Impedance: Dual 4 ohm
* Mica filled poly cone woofer
* Santoprene rubber surround
* Pressed steel basket
* FEA Optimized motor structure
* Linear Conex spiders
* Rubber gasket
* High temperature 8-layer copper voice coil
* Powerful, single stacked magnet
* Sensitivity: 84.7 dB
* Mounting Depth: 5"
* Authorized Internet Dealer
* 1-year Manufacturer's warranty

REX 10D4" T/S Parameters:

* Electrical Q Value (Qes): 0.39
* Mechanical Q Value (Qms): 4.37
* Total Speaker Q Value (Qts): 0.36
* Free Air Resonance (Fs): 21.5 Hz
* Equivalent Compliance (Vas): 75.6 liters
* One-Way, Linear Excursion (Xmax): 12 mm
* Efficiency (SPL 1W/1m): 84.7 dB SPL
* Effective Piston Area (Sd): 322 cm2
* DC Resistance (Re): 3.2 ohm
* Nominal Impedance (Znom): Dual 4 ohm
* Thermal Power Handling (Pe): 175 W
* Force Factor (Bl): 15.4
AMP #1 specs:
RE Audio DTS-800.1
# DTS Series Monoblock Class D Car Amplifier
# RMS Power Rating (14.4V)):

* 4 ohms: 162 watts x 1 chan.
* 2 ohms: 280 watts x 1 chan.
* 1 ohm: 400 watts x 1 chan.

# Dynamic power output: 800 watts x 1 chan.
# Pulse Width Modulated MOSFET power supply
# Wired remote bass level control included
# LED power (green) and protect (red) indicators
# Variable Bass Boost (0 to +12 dB bass boost at 45 Hz)
# Bridgeable with multi link technology (MLT)
# Mono channel operation
# Preamp RCA outputs to daisy chain multiple amps
# 2-Way System Protection circuitry (thermal and short circuit)
# Dual speaker terminals simplify the hookup of multiple speakers
# Heavy duty brushed aluminum alloy convection cooled heatsink for efficient heat dissipation
# Nickel-plated RCA level inputs
# Nickel-plated 12AWG screw terminals
# Input Impedance: 20 K-Ohm
# Input sensitivity:

* Low level: 100mV-6V

# Variable low-pass filter (40-180 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
# Subsonic filter (17-50 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
# Bass frequency (30-80 Hz)
# Effective damping factor: 150 @ 4 ohms
# Frequency response: 17-180 Hz
# Dimensions: 8-1/16"L x 8-11/16"W x 2"H

AMP #2:
MTX RFL600D
# RFL Series Single-Channel Monoblock Class D Car Amplifier
# RMS Power Rating:

* 4 ohms: 350 watts x 1 chan.
* 2 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan.

# Max power output: 1200 watts x 1 chan.
# MOSFET power supply
# Electronic Bass Control allows the user to adjust the bass from a remote controller that can be installed near the drivers seat
# Power and protection LED indicators
# Tuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost)
# 1 channel operation
# Active Fan Cooling technology has air inlets along the top of the amp and hot air outlets on the sides
# Nickel-plated RCA level inputs
# Nickel-plated screw terminals
# Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
# Subsonic Filter (20-50 Hz, 12 Hz)
# CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
# Frequency response: 20-200 Hz
# Dimensions: 14-11/16"L x 8"W x 2-3/8"H
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:18 AM
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Both amps will do just fine and will be very close in power when wired to your subs (MTX you'll have to run at 4ohm).
I'll throw another option out to you; you can also look at some class A/B 2ch amps as there'll be lots of choices for ones that make ~400rms bridged at 4ohms.
You're going to find that many low-power sub amps are going to do max power at 2ohm (not where you want it). This will make a bridged class A/B amp a great fit (especially since at 400rms efficiency isn't going to be a concern).
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